Polarizer for 150mm SS XL with CF

[pchaplo]

Thanks to all who contributed. Pardon my late reply as I’ve been on assignment. I am used to the usual round Polarizers where you rotate the top element. With a square polarizer, how does one control the intensity of the polarization? I am deciding between large-square style filter and a 112mm round B+W.

In looking at my lens arsenal, I am happy not only that a 112mm polarizer will fit BOTH my 150mm SS XL and my 90mm SA XL (with shared Schneider CF), but also that my Nikkor 300M came with a Heliopan polarizer.

[minh0204]

You need a holder that can rotate the filter. Lee's 150 system can fit. Perhaps Joe Cornish can explain it better:

https://youtu.be/OHsZVjfaW8I?t=7m30s

[Eric Woodbury]

I don't know what you photograph, but if it includes open sky, you will find that the sky's polarization changes dramatically with angle from the sun. This with a polarizer will give a great variable sky tonality. I have a 4" polarizer from Calumet, but would never use it with my 72mm on 5x7.

That said, you may not need as large a diameter polarizer as you think. As you stop down on the lens, you are using less and less of the diameter of the lens. That extra diameter is there for that fastest f/number and ease of focusing. Chances are you stop down for your exposures and much of the diameter of filters that 'match' your lens goes unused.

YMMV.

Happy snapping.

[pchaplo]

Minh, Thanks for the video link, I appreciate that.

Eric, Good point and yes, the “variable tonality” (well said!) is exactly what I want. I photograph architecture and engineering project (HABS/HAER). Control of sky tones is my main goal. Also I want to reduce reflections on some materials.

Paul

I don't know what you photograph, but if it includes open sky, you will find that the sky's polarization changes dramatically with angle from the sun. This with a polarizer will give a great variable sky tonality. I have a 4" polarizer from Calumet, but would never use it with my 72mm on 5x7.

That said, you may not need as large a diameter polarizer as you think. As you stop down on the lens, you are using less and less of the diameter of the lens. That extra diameter is there for that fastest f/number and ease of focusing. Chances are you stop down for your exposures and much of the diameter of filters that 'match' your lens goes unused.

YMMV.

Happy snapping.

[Bob Salomon]

Minh, Thanks for the video link, I appreciate that.

Eric, Good point and yes, the “variable tonality” (well said!) is exactly what I want. I photograph architecture and engineering project (HABS/HAER). Control of sky tones is my main goal. Also I want to reduce reflections on some materials.

Paul

Maybe I can rephrase what Eric said.
Parts of the sky are naturally polarized and other parts aren’t. When you are using a wide or very wide lens with a polarizer and the scene includes wide sections of sky you will get banding in the sky which can be very displeasing!

[pchaplo]

Bob,

Ah, I see. Thanks for clarifying that point on variable tonality. I see what you mean.

[pchaplo]

I'm tending towards the B+W 112mm C-POL MRC filter. This one has threaded front ring (for stacking filters, which I never do). I wish I could find a "slim" version is that diameter. I photograph architecture and just need more separation of roofs with sky. My work is all black and white, yet I would prefer to start with a polarizer for also reducing reflections. I dont see the banding issue as being significant problem in my type of work. I do like that with a polarizer, I can "dial in" the amount of polarization effect. The B+W claims "high transmission" and filter factor of only 1 stop -to- 1.5 stops, which wont slow my shutter-speed down too much. I like the latter; its a benefit to my outdoor work in the Texas wind.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...emann_htc.html

Since the 112mm polarizer will work on my 2 workhorse lenses - 150mm SS XL and 90 SA XL - which also share same CF (and my 300M came with a nice Heliopan pol!), therefore I think that interchange-ability is less of an issue for me than some other users.

If I need to do an extreme front rise, I can check on gg and remove filter if it vignettes -- realistically such a shot is 1% of my work. And as Eric noted:

That extra diameter is there for that fastest f/number and ease of focusing. Chances are you stop down for your exposures and much of the diameter of filters that 'match' your lens goes unused.

[Eric Leppanen]

I vaguely recall that SK Grimes used to custom make large polarizing filters, but they are no longer on their products list.

Haida lists a 112mm slim polarizer (HD1212), please ref page 11 of this PDF. I know nothing of this product otherwise....

https://www.haida-filters.be/Images/..._2016_2017.pdf

[Doremus Scudder]

Maybe I can rephrase what Eric said.
Parts of the sky are naturally polarized and other parts aren’t. When you are using a wide or very wide lens with a polarizer and the scene includes wide sections of sky you will get banding in the sky which can be very displeasing!

Or, you can use it to your advantage:



This was made on 4x5 film with a 90mm lens and a polarizer at an angle to the sky so that the left was darkened, but the right not.

Best,

Doremus

[pchaplo]

Doremus,

That is creative — a grad that mostly affects the sky! Which polarizer do you use?