A f6.7 lens is around twice as bright as an f9 lens. I work under a lot of low-light situations where that is very helpful -- the weight difference can be unimportant relative to ease of use. That said, my Fuji W 360/6.3 is an anchor...but that is also used on the 11x14 where it actually looks small.
"Landscapes exist in the material world yet soar in the realms of the spirit..." Tsung Ping, 5th Century China
Don't forget the 240mm Doctor Optics Germinar. Small, multi-coated, sharp.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I've used the Fuji 250/6.7, the 240 A, and the 250 G-Claron. The real-world coverage stopped down is almost identical, and differs only wide open where you get a tad of mechanical vignetting on 8X10 with strong rise or tilt. All these are optically superb. The A and G are both close-range as well as infinity corrected, though the A is more contrasty - too much so for chromes like Velvia. All are hard-sharp, really crisp, so might not be ideal for portraiture, though this seems awful wide for that kind of use on 8x10.
The in-shutter plasmat G. These were marketed for tabletop studio photography, but are superb at infinity too, and fairly resistant to flare despite the single coating. Unfortunately, the published image circle specs still have extremely stringent process camera standards in mind, and are considerably smaller than real-world general applications. In some extreme situations you might need to combine both front and back tilt to get optimal sharpness in the corners of big prints like 30x40 in, but most people would never notice.
The 250 G is essentially a 70-degree lens, while the 250/6.7 Fuji W is 80 degree. But at typical f/45 aperture, they're about equal coverage, along with the 240 Fuji A. You can't go wrong with any of them, and all are relatively light and portable due to small shutters.
Close enough for government work, Luis.
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