Waxing Wood Tripod Legs

[John_4185]

Got my second well-used, sun bleached and worn Zone VI tripod recently (the first is dedicated to one camera) and got it quite wet right away.

The swollen wood surface is causing difficulty when opening and closing. I used fine steel wool to smooth the binding leg surfaces. Consider it now unfinished. It is still not good enough, and besides I want to protect the area in question because I'll be leaving the tripod outdoors with only modest protection for a few weeks, possibly much longer. (The rotted strap and rope has already been replaced with nylon versions.)

Should I wax it? I have a can old old fashion Simonize that I used on a wood floor, but floors don't stand in the sun and rain. Should I abandon the old fashion and use an epoxy finish? I need something that won't become sticky or bind up in the elements.

Thank you in advance

[Bruce Barlow]

"Fine Woodworking" magazine had a recent article on wood finishes and moisture protection. Wax gives nearly zero protection. Nevertheless, wax will probably make your tripod legs work more smoothly in humid weather, and so I'd go ahead and do it. I do. Simonize is fine, as are any of the woodworking waxes. Two thin coats may be a bit better than one.

[paulr]

I've used regular butcher's wax on mine .. it works fine. before I got that I rubbed parafin on. That seemed to work just as well. I never had problems with moisture. I used the wax as a lube.

[Nathaniel Paust]

I've also ready the "Fine Woodworking" article about wipe-on finishes and I'll give you my opinion based on some furniture that I've built (although that has nothing to do with cameras)

I'd go get a bottle of the Minwax Wipe-On Poly and give the tripod two quick coats (it really is fast and easy stuff to work with, you just get a rag wet with it, wipe it on, and then wipe off any extra). That should give you a nice finish to protect the wood. Then I'd use furniture or floor wax to go over the poly. It'll protect a little bit more and will also lubricate the sliding parts.

I have a table that I finished this way and it's be extremely resistant to cat scratches from the kitties running over the top. Of course, since it's the table the TV is on it hasn't really had to face any water.

[John Cook]

The "leaving outside" part is the trouble. Wax just won't suffice alone in that kind of beating. But it will add to the protection of a finish under it. But don't wax it and then try to finish it - the finish won't stick.

The epoxy might be good. I have never used it, so I just don't know. But it may be tougher than traditional finishes.

Polyurethane will withstand a lot of abrasion on interior wood floors. But ultraviolet from sunlight tears it up. No good, for example, on lawn furniture.

Best thing for boats is spar varnish. Special additives to withstand sunlight. It is also soft and flexible enough to move with the wood when it swells and shrinks with moisture. (That's why sailors wear soft-soled deck shoes.) Brittle finishes will crack.

As a woodworker, I would go with wax over spar varnish as the time-tested classic finish. Hardware store paste floor wax like Butchers or Johnsons will work. But being a perfectionist, I would use a furniture wax like Briwax from England. Here is an honest web dealer I have used often:

http://www.briwax-online.com/original.html

Also, check out their bronze wool which will not leave steel wool splinters behind to rust and later stain your job. Cheap insurance.

[matthew blais]

Tung oil and wax. The oil soaks INTO the wood, not on top as a varnish essentially does. I then use a French paste wax I have that was fairly expensive. 2-3 coats. Johnsons' paste wax will do. I did my old Ries Hollywood this way.
Water still beads up on it.

DO not use floor wax.

An occasional wipe with Pledge or Howard's Feed 'N Wax to keep it maintained.

[Richard Ide]

I agree with Mathew. I have used Tung Oil for years for finishing furniture. It is the most waterproof of all the oils. I know I don't have to worry about putting a wet cup or glass on the surface. I give about eight to ten coats to start and then a couple of times a year.

Richard

[Matt Mengel]

I would also agree about the tung oil. As for the sticking legs,I have used beeswax for wooden surfaces that slide against each other. On old dressers and desks with wooden drawers rub a chunk of beeswax on the two mating surfaces and your drawers will not stick. I assume this would work the same on the interior leg surfaces of your Ries. This would only be to keep the surfaces from sticking not for weather protection. The beeswax may offer some weather proofing but I have not tried it. Find a local beekeper or honey seller and they will have beeswax.
Matt

[Calamity Jane]

I used Watco Danish oil on mine and is seems to be doing very well. It doesn't swell/shrink very much and any water seems to just bead up. I don't know how this would do in the sun for a long period though.

[matthew blais]

I forgot...Danish oil and tung oil are (to me) essentially the same, and use both depending on what's handy
A good paste wax will have them legs slidin' just fine.

They (someone?) also make an exterior tung/danish oil....made to hold up better in adverse conditions.