Unsharp masking

[Drew Wiley]

Dedicated micro-pins for masking had a barrel to expoxy into the glass about 1/8 in dia. The actual micopin projecting above the glass was about 1/16 in dia, but crucially not centered on the barrel. This slight offset allowed the pin to be ever so slightly rotated before the epoxy set up to allow complete accuracy with a punched strip. These pins are very difficult to find. If you take a tiny stainless pin by itself (easy to find), you need the drilling and spacing of the pins to be within .002 inch or better. And the same jig must be used for anything matching. There's even an art to correctly using a punch. But none of this should scare beginners, who can simply register and tape using a light box. On trick is to take a fine needle and scratch X-marks on opposite corners of the original negative, outside the image area of course. These scratches are easier to align.

[Pere Casals]

On trick is to take a fine needle and scratch X-marks on opposite corners of the original negative, outside the image area of course. These scratches are easier to align.

This tip should be effective !

[Bernhardas]

It's just another tool (or tool kit) among many options. But for me, it's relatively instinctive because masking was 100 percent of the time printing Cibachrome. I have three big binders full of densitometer plots, procedural protocols, and sample prints, one volume for Ciba, one for dye transfer, and one for color neg printing. Sheets for black and white masking are also in there; but that's comparatively simple compared to color masking. It can be fun and challenging. With black and white work, it's easy to overdo. But if an unsharp mask itself happens to be too strong, a minute or so in Farmers Reducer is an easy way to fine-tune the density. I certainly don't make a religion out of masking - but what the heck, I've already got the gear and experience.

Hmm sounds like a lot of source material for a masking book?

[Drew Wiley]

The problem with any such book is not only lttle demand, but the fact that specific materials change from time to time. The basic techniques have been around over 70 yrs. You might try that Andy Cross book noted earlier. A lot of info is online regarding past color processes, and the current mfg of limited gear provide their own tutorials per b&w masking. Ctein's book, Post Exposure still has useful hints. I passed up my opportunity long ago when the editor of Dkrm Techniques approached me first. Would have liked to have helped, but the glossy architectural magazines were paying five times the rate, and I only had so many moonlight hours to contribute.

[interneg]

Just an update for those looking for masking equipment, I emailed Alistair Inglis a few days ago to ask about current availability of his masking system, however he replied that he had recently retired - which leaves only the Radeka system as the main currently available masking kit I think?

[Drew Wiley]

Depends. I hesitate to give the third source even though the gear is way better. ... Doesn't help much if some of it never arrived. But if you're working with large sheets (8x10 up), you can always use registration strips made with full-sized punches. The customer service at Ternes Burton is superb.

[interneg]

Depends. I hesitate to give the third source even though the gear is way better. ... Doesn't help much if some of it never arrived. But if you're working with large sheets (8x10 up), you can always use registration strips made with full-sized punches. The customer service at Ternes Burton is superb.

If you mean the Durst-Pro company that seemed to have swallowed up the Condit punches, they may well also be gone too - there was a recent thread on Photrio that mentioned that Jens Jensen had died recently.

I do know a couple of toolmakers who'd be able to build the necessary kit, but the biggest headache is the glass - and at that point my mind wandered off in the direction of immersion carriers...

Was aware of the Ternes Burton pins, but more because of a mad idea involving 4-colour hand wiped gravures...

[Drew Wiley]

Carlwen once made immersion carriers. A good idea in theory. I just never wanted to deal with the cleanup. Anti-Newton sprays are also available from the same outfits that distribute scanning fluid. A so-so solution if nothing else works.

[Peter De Smidt]

I have a Kodak registration punch. I was able to buy Stosser (I think) pins from a graphics supply place, similar to the place Drew mentioned. Punch some mylar, or similar. Put pins into holes on mylar. Tape pins to something solid. Unlike the Condit system, you have to tape something to punch to the negative.

[Drew Wiley]

Same if you have the Durst system - always needs a secondary strip taped to your film. Remember to use dimensionally stable mylar or polyester tape, strip too, although brass shim stock can be substituted for the latter. Don't expect to find a working Durst punch. But it is possible to make something similar.