Replacement bulbs for Zone VI 5x7 Type II VC enlarger

[kgneely]

Having similar problem. The green tube quit working on my Zone VI VC head on my Beseler 4x5 enlarger. I've searched for a replacement tube but haven't had any luck. So, I'm looking for a replacement head, namely an Aristo VCL4500.. Anyone have any ideas.. The Heiland LED head sounds like a nice solution.

[Duolab123]

The bulbs will last longer then the drivers that power the bulbs. the drivers were custom made and are no longer available.

When the bulbs die, you should get about 10000 hours of use I would put in LEDs.

I have a Zone VI VC head for Beseler 4x5, and 5x7 and 8x10 Zone IV type II enlargers. I use a Metrolux II timer. I got this stuff from someone that bought it and never used it. Amazing equipment. I plan on using this equipment for many years to come. Nothing better. The 5x7 is on standby right now as I use the Beseler for 4x5 on down and the 8x10 for 8x10 and 6x17. The negative carrier in the 8x10 is better than anything else I have every seen for 8x10 negatives. I hate glass carriers. Best Regards, Mike

[ic-racer]

I had a new Aristo1414 tube custom made for about $500 a few years ago.
https://www.light-sources.com/soluti...-lamps/page/2/

[Edward Pierce]

The covid crisis has given me time to re-enter the darkroom after a break of several years.

The contrast results of my Zone VI VC type 2, with Zone VI compensating timer, have changed significantly. I ran extensive tests in 2009 and was able to achieve grades 0 through 4 using various combinations of the soft and hard controls, on three brands of paper. The enlarger was working well.

Now in 2021 I am unable to get a grade 2 with a single exposure using both controls. An exposure with the soft control at Max and the hard control at Min yields a grade 3.5. I suspect the blue hard bulb, though it could be the hard dimmer control, or a problem with the timer sensor.

I do have spare bulbs, but I’ve never tried changing them. I looked at opening the head and saw that the diffuser is sealed with some type of black caulk. Has anyone changed their bulbs, and can you describe the process?

[cowanw]

Your other solution is to run the bulbs separately and treat the enlarger as a split exposure system. You may find you use relatively large numbers of green and smaller amounts of blue than you might have expected

[Keith Pitman]

I get an approximate grade 2 with both controls set to “E.” Then for higher and lower grades I make small adjustments of more blue/less yellow, etc.

[konakoa]

...I ran extensive tests in 2009...The enlarger was working well. Now in 2021 I am unable to get a grade 2...

Edward, a trap I have fallen into more than once with paper contrast isn't the enlarger, but the paper. Specifically the age of the paper. Before you tear your enlarger apart, have you checked how old your paper is? I had a similar issue last year and pulled my hair out trying to figure out what it was. Bulbs, printing filters, safelight tests, chemistry. Turned out my paper was six years old. Thought I was okay as I always kept it refrigerated. Nope! With fresh, new paper, all the issues I was having went away.

[Edward Pierce]

Thanks folks, it was the paper. It’s a new box of Ilford MGFB Classic, which I mistakenly assumed would be similar to the Ilford MGFB I used in 2009. The Adox MCC and Arista I have on hand work fine. Phew!

I might try split printing with the Ilford, but I’ve never really liked that technique because it’s twice the work and twice the likelihood of errors. Yes, as noted above, it does take much longer green than blue exposures. And I’m never sure that the blue light is actually being “compensated”.

My other thought is adding a yellow filter. Ideally larger than 4x5 and placed over the negative. I don’t have one that big but I do have 4x4 polyester filters for the camera. I’ll try these under the lens and see what happens. Has anyone tried using camera filters with a VC enlarger?