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Thread: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

  1. #11

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    Re: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

    Quote Originally Posted by ic-racer View Post
    My one condenser enlarger projects the image of back-illuminated frosted disk
    I've read about these, but never used one. Assuming the disk is easy to remove, you would have the best of both worlds. Is the disc above the condenser or below it?

    Beseler made an interesting adapter for (most of?) their 45 enlargers that allows you to place their diffusion color heads ON TOP of the standard condenser assembly. That may sound odd. They advertised it as a way to add more UMMMPH or PUNCH to your color images without loosing the benefits of the color head. I have one, but I never used it because there are ways to add PUNCH in the color developing process.

  2. #12

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    Re: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Ron View Post
    I see lots of posts about condensers being a bit more contrasty.
    It's true, they are more contrasty. I would put it at about a one VC grade increase. Others may think differently. But that's not the only difference. The image is also sharper, so grain and any blemishes show up a little more clearly. If you use a point light source, this is glaring. So it's a win-lose situation -- no matter which way you go. That's why I have so many different enlarger heads. One size fits all for some people, but not everyone -- or every shot.

  3. #13

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    Aug 2004
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    Re: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

    Quick update....

    I painted the inside of the cone ultra flat black.

    Before painting.....
    I put in a 9x12 neg, focused at 11x14 image. I traced the image area on a paper, then removed the neg carrier. I traced the light circle and the fall off hallow around the circle which was about 1 inch all the way around just nipping at my 11x14 image corners.

    Painting flat black has reduced some of the fall off at the edge of the light circle by about 1/2 inch.

    BTW both the 212 and the LED bulb produce the same light circles.
    The LED is a "Bright White" that looks to be the same color as the 212 bulb, maybe just a tad brighter.

  4. #14

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    Re: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

    As to your interest in an above-the-lens filter holder, these are relatively easy as a DIY project. I know because I just built an above-the-lens filter holder for my CB7. The holder for the MX is a thin sheet of clear Plexiglas (easy to scratch) -- square in the front and round in the back -- with a thin rim of metal around it (to keep the filter in place. It uses 6" filters, but you have to trim them in the rear so that they are round. Plexiglas like this is easy and cheap. You can probably get a piece at a craft store. Cutting it will require the correct tool(s).

    On my CB7, I cut a ~7x9" sheet of plain window glass. The interior of the CB7 head is rectangular and glass is easy to cut and less likely to scratch. I rimmed the edges of the glass with thin plastic strips and a little epoxy glue. You could do the same. I can send you a picture of the genuine MX holder and my home-made CB7 holder if that helps.
    Last edited by xkaes; 18-Dec-2017 at 10:09.

  5. #15

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    Re: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Ron View Post
    BTW both the 212 and the LED bulb produce the same light circles.
    The LED is a "Bright White" that looks to be the same color as the 212 bulb, maybe just a tad brighter.
    That's nice to know in case I ever run out of 212's -- not happening anytime soon!

  6. #16

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    Re: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

    Quote Originally Posted by xkaes View Post
    As to your interest in an above-the-lens filter holder, these are relatively easy as a DIY project. I know because I just built an above-the-lens filter holder for my CB7. The holder for the MX is a thin sheet of clear Plexiglas (easy to scratch) -- square in the front and round in the back -- with a thin rim of metal around it (to keep the filter in place. It uses 6" filters,s)......
    I did exactly that for 30 years using the plastic. I siliconed mine in, painted the rim black so it wouldn't leak white light and left it there permanently. all I did was slide the gels in the door. That stupid condenser separator isn't a clean radius and makes it hard to get a good fit.

    BUT while revamping my enlarger I took the old out and thought it was about time to get an official holder. BUT I see these holders are as rare as chicken lips. so Fred, its back to the stone age.

    This is my template to cut gels... glad I kept it, it will serve as my template for a new plastic.

    I may try my hand at cutting it out of glass... hahaha that should be fun.

  7. #17

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    Re: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

    Quote Originally Posted by xkaes View Post
    That's nice to know in case I ever run out of 212's -- not happening anytime soon!

    The LED bulb is so much cooler. Its been on all day, forgot to shut it off this morning. I can still remove the bulb bare handed, the lamp house is just warm.

    Now for some printing as soon as I get my filters back in order.

  8. #18

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    Re: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

    Interesting. I have a Beseler adapter for my Zone VI that will also hold an D2 Omega condenser head that I've kept. I print w/a color head. But some day, who knows, I may decide to my D2 a try.

  9. #19

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    Re: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Ron View Post
    LED bulb.
    Just a suggestion, you may use a RGB adjustable light:


    Click image for larger version. 

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    By using/rewiring components of a (until 200w) Floodlight you may use the RGB feature, you may need a disipador for the back of the led.

    > Equivalent to 1.5kw or 2kw of halogen power, but with low heat (ni IR)

    > Can adjust power with remote command

    > Press "Red" and you have a safety light

    > Press "Yellow" or "Magenta" to print with Split Grade, you can control contrast by adjusting different times for each color, once you calibrate it you won't need contrast filters.

    This "color head" management may need some wiring or even DIY electronic circuits or integration, but it may end in a very convenient and powerful system.

  10. #20

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    Aug 2004
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    Re: Switching back to condensor head, 45MCRX, from cold light

    woooooooooo that looks great!

    what diy does that need? i have no problem with diy but id like to see more details. have any links for all the details and availability of parts n controllers etc??

    did you build one?

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