If you want to do it with film, TMax is by far the best current choice. But because a 47 or 47B blue filter is so slow, one strategy is to use TMY400 for the blue exposure, and TMX100 for red and green. I do know of one person doing it with FP4, but the blue separation is a headache requiring overdevelopment.
here is a direct link to the pdf : http://trichromie.free.fr/aipc/publi...Trichromie.pdfOriginally Posted by brennig
In it you will find answers for all your questions. How to deal with the blue (keeping the same film), how to past them in PS and so on. 750 pages...
J
Thanks for all the answers people!
That link still doesn't work for me, perhaps I should email Henri and have it sent as an attachment.
I have all the filters ready to go! Making some modifications to my camera, in particular to the back so that changing the film doesn't move the camera as much. Also made my own primitive filter holder (out of a clothes hanger) that won't shake the lens when changing filters. I'm going to test everything out on my Rolleicord this weekend, getting the exposure times, scanning, photoshopping in order before moving onto 4x5.
As I'm printing these photos I will need a Key (monochrome) layer, I was initially planing on getting this from combining CMY layers, but then that layer will include the aberrations. Instead I'm planning on shooting one shot without a filter, then two with red and green filters. I will create the Blue (and thus Y) by subtracting R and G from the unfiltered image. That should also help with exposure times. My R and G filters are resin (Formatt Hitech), but my B is an old Kodak gel, therefore this method might be more consistent too.
Hello,
Here is a link to Dropbox where you'll get the PDF :
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vbk6no2mm5...romie.pdf?dl=0
Have Fun
J
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks