Reverse Rolling/Flattening From Long Roll Cuts?

[bob carnie]

Whenever I use tubes, the inside is always wet, and that always keeps the paper stuck to the tube. Even for the first use, I rinse it out, but I always rinse out after processing a sheet. The tubes don't use must chemical, but that and wet walls keep it stuck on the wall (I forget the term for that). That stickiness can sometimes make it difficult to get the paper into the tube, especially with large sheets.

I don't extend processing time -- in tubes or troughs -- but I always run a small test piece of the paper through to check.

Ok thanks.. so the large paper is rolled on itself then put in the tube for processing, I would think the inside of the paper would not get equal dispersion of chemicals.. I use a 16 x20 tube for large film on my jobo and at that size to have the film encircle the interior of the tube with out overlapping its a pretty big circumference. I would think the tube would have to be super size to do a 40 x60 inch print.

When I scroll I have the paper completely immersed in chemicals.. the trough itself holds about 40 liters to make this possible. I scroll towards myself, then rotate the roll and keep scrolling through the 4 min development. 90% of the time the paper is completely immersed in the chemicals.. After a day of this my wife can tell I am coming home a block away.

To the OP - if there is time I really would think the K16 design would fit your needs ..

[xkaes]

I only use 4 liters of chemical in each 12"x5' trough -- not very much really. The paper sinks to the bottom -- but does not stick very much -- and as I roll it from one end to the other, the chemicals are in the middle of the roll (the emulsion side). That keeps the paper down and through each roll, the paper gets covered by it. The same spot on the roll gets a new "splash" of chemical as it is rolled in reverse. I tend to use long development times anyway -- through dilution -- and have never had a problem with uneven development. I suppose with very short development times, ex. two minutes, that might be an issue. Just dilute and lengthen the development, etc. time. The paper does not need to be immersed in chemicals 100% of the time, it just needs to be "exposed" to it repeatedly -- which rolling (in a trough or a tube) -- accomplishes.

[Tin Can]

Not using it any more... Moderators here made me take down my labs address , as it was perceived as advertising.

Now I remember!

CRS

[Pere Casals]

Having just completed construction of a horizontal enlarger...

I've been testing a Hor. enlarger "prototype", solution I found to keep paper flat and in place is the adhesive way.

So my suggestion is place a flat surface on the wall (Thick Glass or Melamine White Panel, checking it is flat enough) and then spray on it 3M ReMount spray, paper will remain perpectly flat as if it was a vacuum powered easel, but more convenient !

Single problem is that you will need to spray some more ReMount glue after several days, after some weeks you may want to clean out all glue with "3M™ Adhesive Remover" for example and to spay new 3M ReMount.

If you use this way, remember protecting the sprayed glue by plastic sheet adhered on it when not using it (a RC paper used and discarted is perfect), in this way the glue will last more and no dust will adhere on it.

This glue looks like that in PostIt notes, it does not leave residues in the other object, so your photo paper won't take any glue. I feel like a 3M seller but you can use any other brand, of course.

Don't spray too much glue, just the amount that it keeps your paper flat and in place, this is much less than it looks.

I've played with that while trying to use a CAMBO 810 as an Hor. enlarger, placing in the back a Graflarger like DIY gadget. Also I use it to get paper flat under a MF enlarger. I'm happy with that way.

Regards.

[bob carnie]

I've been testing a Hor. enlarger "prototype", solution I found to keep paper flat and in place is the adhesive way.

So my suggestion is place a flat surface on the wall (Thick Glass or Melamine White Panel, checking it is flat enough) and then spray on it 3M ReMount spray, paper will remain perpectly flat as if it was a vacuum powered easel, but more convenient !

Single problem is that you will need to spray some more ReMount glue after several days, after some weeks you may want to clean out all glue with "3M™ Adhesive Remover" for example and to spay new 3M ReMount.

If you use this way, remember protecting the sprayed glue by plastic sheet adhered on it when not using it (a RC paper used and discarted is perfect), in this way the glue will last more and no dust will adhere on it.

This glue looks like that in PostIt notes, it does not leave residues in the other object, so your photo paper won't take any glue. I feel like a 3M seller but you can use any other brand, of course.

Don't spray too much glue, just the amount that it keeps your paper flat and in place, this is much less than it looks.

I've played with that while trying to use a CAMBO 810 as an Hor. enlarger, placing in the back a Graflarger like DIY gadget. Also I use it to get paper flat under a MF enlarger. I'm happy with that way.

Regards.

Sorry but this is probably the worst suggestion I have ever heard Pere .. Tried and true methods are metal walls magnets, hundreds of thousands of prints worldwide done this way if not millions when you consider Colour Mural Houses.

[Pere Casals]

Sorry but this is probably the worst suggestion I have ever heard Pere .. Tried and true methods are metal walls magnets, hundreds of thousands of prints worldwide done this way if not millions when you consider Colour Mural Houses.

Adhesive solution is also used for high performance film holders, I took the idea from that, sure a pro printer like you sure has better pro solutions, but I can ensure the ReMount solution works also perfecly, and it is a good solution for an amateur like me, as magnets do not ensure perfect flatness an provocates a paper waste.

[bob carnie]

Adhesive solution is also used for high performance film holders, I took the idea from that, sure a pro printer like you sure has better pro solutions, but I can ensure the ReMount solution works also perfecly, and it is a good solution for an amateur like me, as magnets do not ensure perfect flatness an provocates a paper waste.

Dude... fill your boots.. worst idea ever IMO... Have you ever made a mural Print??

[John Layton]

"Fill your boots." Ha! Never heard this one. Something from north of the border? About those magnets...do these work along a strongly curled paper edge? If so I think this sounds like a great solution. What worries me about using tape along such a strongly curled edge is the possibility that it may pull back a bit during exposure - which would be a veritable bummer...but then again I've never done either (tape or magnets) so I should just try one of these and see.

And xkaes...sounds like you simply place the rolled up paper into a trough...and start rolling this in a manner which will send solutions between layers. Is this correct? With the emulsion side inwards I see no problems with scratching...and because you are going with the paper's curl I could see that there would be only minimal danger of creasing (boy...do I ever hate it when I've not noticed a crease until a print is under glass!). I think I might worry about evenness though - but it sounds like you've gotten good results so its likely just a matter of practice. Still think I might start with the long clips...but maybe do a presoak first?

[xkaes]

All I've ever used is masking tape. It stays in place fine, but you need to use a lot and takes time -- magnets might be faster, but my easel is foamcore and wood. You can feel the edges of the paper and only cover a little with the tape. Once the top is in place, it's easy to get the other sides to line up.

The only problems with creases I've had is getting the paper into the easel -- that would be with same with masking tape or magnets -- and getting it out of the last trough and onto a clothes line.

Evenness of developing has never been a problem. Just keep your processing time as long as possible

[Pere Casals]

Dude... fill your boots.. worst idea ever IMO... Have you ever made a mural Print??

Bob, no, I've never made a mural print, but a mural print has lower flatness requirements than an smaller print, as paper to lens distance is greater then way wider "on paper DOF" can be guessed in the mural print case. If I enlarge a 8x10 to 16x20" and want perfect sharpness then paper good flatness is good, specially if paper comes from a roll, as I absolutely lack Pro gear the ReMount glue ensures same flatness than a vacuum table, just tell me a single reason why it is not going to work perfect. I repeat, sure a pro lab (like yours) has better solutions...

Bob, amateurs like me have to find the easy way, we lack pro gear and the expertise you have, so achieving a sound result normally it is a challenge, at least for me.