4x5 color negative processing problems

**Dan Jolicoeur** · 4-Aug-2005, 11:13

I have never processed color also and would like to give it a try because of cost. My question is; isn't this what a Jobo processor was made for? I guess most people are using them for B&W maybe?
Is there anyone out there using a rotary jobo(cpe, cpa,cpp) for C-41 and is it a fairly easy process? Also what about waste chemicals, can they go into the septic, small quantities?
Thanks ,

**James Via** · 4-Aug-2005, 16:21

M Brain Mills

On the pre soak issue - Kodak does not recommend a presoak, it affects the D-max of the film and they say it will have inconsistant results. With todays C41 films a pre soak is unnecessary. I fully understand the need for and use a pre soak in my B&W and when I did E6. But with C 41 it is supposedly a no -no. It's just what I've learned from weeks of investigation into this matter of doing my own C41.
But if you are having success and are happy with the results then stick with it. Rules are made to be broken and in photography we are always breaking the rules to discover more creative ways to work.

Mark,

Could you explain your processing technique for us.

Also, I did read an article about C41 processing at 85 and the time for development was something like 7 - 8 minutes.

Thanks for all the responces.

**Mark_3899** · 4-Aug-2005, 22:29

Well, 3 hard rubber tanks submerged in a PhotoTherm water bath. Kodak Flexicolor chemistry. (Dev, Bleach III, Fix) I let my chemistry temp. stabilize at 100*F (really the developer is the only critical temp to maintain) I load my film in SS hangers, put them in an empty tank and put that in the water bath for 5 mins to aclimate the hangers so they don't cause a temp drop in the developer.
3:15 in the developer agitated as I mentioned above. Drain the last 10 seconds of this time.
6:30 in the bleach, same agitation
turn on the room lights
3:15 wash
6:30 fix
3:15 wash
1:30 stabilizer, constant agitation. (don't heat this stuff, there is no need and you don't want to breathe the formaldehyde fumes)
I hang the film by film clips right out of the stabilizer.
The only other thing I'll add is I use an aquarium pump and air stone in my bleach tank for 15 mins just prior to processing. Bleach needs aeration to work efficiently.

I try and save up my color neg film in larger batches to be as economical as possible. I have used the same chemistry for two months with only a floating lid protecting it. When I worked in the color lab I replenished after each process. I just use my small tanks unreplenished until exhaustion. The rule is about 19 sheets of 4x5 for a 4x5 tank. You get two tanks worth of chemistry in a gallon kit. 38 sheets . Hope this helps.

**Mark_3899** · 5-Aug-2005, 21:22

That's true about the bleach, fix and stabilizer, actually bleach can really be used even longer than that, but it's easier for me to change my bleach and fix together after my developer is exhaused so I easily know where I'm at in terms of exhaustion. I also attribute my flawless negs with the meticulous way I handle my chemistry.