New to Black and White developing...........

[Horseman]

Hi All,

I have been getting my negs processed by a lab up to now but am about to embark on the " home developing route "

I shoot Ilford delta 100 primarily and am reasonably happy with the results I get back from the lab but want to take what i see is the next step.

I have read a bit into it and am happy that I will need to experiment around a basic concept in order to fine tune the exp/dev process but was looking for " comment " on what and where is the best place to start !

i am looking at the Patterson 3 reel with a Mod 54 to allow daylight processing and have the following list of "priorities"

1. simplicity ( I have a dark bathroom but looking to keep the process as simple as possible)
2. exp/dev aimed for scanning for hybrid printing
3. consistency
4. smell ( I have told "her " she will barely notice the smell !)

lol

Any advice or comments gratefully accepted

John

[Leigh]

Hi John,

A couple of points to keep in mind.

1 - Shadow density (thinnest areas of the negative) is controlled ONLY by exposure.

2 - Highlight density is controlled (mostly) by development.

Obviously, mid-tones are a bit of each.

Best place to start - Manufacturers' recommendations.
That includes film speed, exposure, and processing.

- Leigh

[xkaes]

The only thing I can add is that the biggest culprit to smell is the acedic acid stop bath. You have a few options, such as getting a fan to blow out the fumes, find a low-fume stop bath, use the vinegar in your fridge (it's really the same thing, and tell her you are making a salad) or get a LOT of FEBREZE.

[Tin Can]

A lot of us do not use an acetic acid stop. I generally use fresh water for film and citric acid for paper. Others here will differ.

I showed a friend my darkroom once, before I quit using acetic acid. She quickly grabbed my bottle of stop, which was marked and before I could prevail, she took a big inhale. Then smiled and said she missed that smell...

[Doremus Scudder]

Horseman,

A citric acid stop bath used one-shot has very little odor. I mix mine half-strength as well. Kodak Indicator Stop is acetic acid, but I believe that the Ilford Ilfostop with indicator is citric-acid based. This will eliminate a lot of odor.

Fixer can be a bit smelly too; try using Ilford Rapid Fixer or Photographers' Formulary TF-5 for lowest odor.

Generally, however, even a bit of acetic acid stop and acid fixer smell dissipates rather quickly. Turn on the exhaust fan and/or open a window for a bit after processing and you'll be fine.

As for simplicity: stick with Develop-Stop-Fix-Wash for film processing. Use liquid concentrate stock solutions so you don't have to do a lot of mixing (think HC-110 or Pyrocat). Find a simple way to consolidate and store processing stuff and chemicals out of the way when not in use, but easily accessible when needed. Film processing isn't that complicated.

As for starting point for developing. Manufacturers' recommendations are great, but if you've decided on a combination that the manufacturer doesn't list, do check here for a little help. Many get great results from box speed and manufacturer's published developing time. The most common deviation from this for LF users is to rate their film slower (1/3-2/3 stop) and reduce development time 15-20% from the published time. This gives a bit of a safety factor for shadow detail and makes for a bit less contrasty neg, which many prefer for landscape work, etc. (me included). This should also give you a negative that scans well. However, if you ever plan to do any conventional printing, it's best to optimize your negatives for enlarging. The only way to do this, however, is to go into the darkroom and print...

Best,

Doremus

[Tin Can]

I mix my citric acid stop for paper from bulk food-grade grains. No dust. Very cheap. TF5 fixer is a liquid best mixed with distilled water per Photography Formulary the only manufacturer as far as I know. TF5 was recently 1/2 price and I stocked up. Shipping is cheapest at 4 gallons. My second such order in 3 years.

I run a sink exhaust fan except when outside temp is very cold. I notice nearly no odor from my darkroom.

My developers are liquid to eliminate airborne powders which are always a bad idea in my opinion. Mix them outside.

[esearing]

If you are brave -pick a developer then jump right in and expect to burn through some rolls in the learning process. If more timid, take a class or find a local mentor/enthusiast to walk you through the process a few times.
For scanning you may want a less dense negative for flat bed vs a dedicated film scanner.
As for smell - use water for stop bath (film) and non-acidic fixers like Formulary's TF5.

If doing this indoors - practice cleanliness and protect your counters with plastic, or prepare to remodel your kitchen.

[John Kasaian]

If you like your lab's results, I'd ask them which developer they use and go from there.
Practice loading your tank with scrap film, then close your eyes and try it---what helps me is having a clean counter top where I can place everything I need where it's easy to find in the dark (example---full film holders lay flat on the left, tank in front, lid to tank on the right, empty film holders on edge, far left.)
As others mentioned, there are low or no odor alternatives that work just fine.
I use Betty Crocker measuring cups from WalMart to pre-measure to dosage when I use a processor, colored plastic tape and a Sharpie tells me which chemical goes in which measuring cup.
When using trays, I work on a piece of wood I cut to fit in order to protect the counter top.
Have fun!

[Luis-F-S]

If the smell is still an issue you know what to replace

[Horseman]

If the smell is still an issue you know what to replace

Lol it will be a tough choice !

Thanks all for the replies and help it is much appreciated. I think I am going for the dedicated Ilford developer, odorless stop bath and fixer for now and will be shooting a lot more sheets while I get to grips with it.

Lots of good info here so thanks very much

One question , I saw someone on a YT vid rinse the film with water for a minute or 2 prior to commencing a 3 step development to remove the antihalation layer, is this necessary|beneficial?

Thanks for all the replies

I will post my first sheet as I am quite excited by the whole new world I am entering.

John