how to clean a laminated print

[paulr]

I have a 40 x 50 inch print, mounted to gatorfoam and covered with a clear laminate. It's about 10 years old and has held up well, but enough grime has built up on the surface now to really dull the print.

What's the best way to clean the surface without doing any harm? I don't know the specifics on the laminate, but it's a typical product used for protecting display prints and transparencies from handling and UV.

Any thoughts?

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

My first move would be to try and degrease the laminate. You would want to first clean the laminate with a very, and I mean very mild solution of sodium hydroxide, followed by and acid wipe, you could use vinegar for this. Now, with the sodium hydroxide there is a chance you might cloud the laminate so first test with a q tip in a very small area in a corner that can be covered by a frame. Clean and wait at least a day to see the results.

Some organic cleaners will melt your laminate, definitely do not use acetone, you will end up with melted laminate. Ethyl alcohol could work (get a bottle of everclear) but once again some organic solvents cloud laminate, so test it before you do the whole print.

Hopefully someone experienced in restoration can give you more tips.

[paulr]

Sodium hydroxide? I know you don't like fauxtographers, but i didn't think you were trying to kill us

[Brian C. Miller]

What about using Pec film cleaner and Pec pads?

[John Cook]

My concern would be introducing dry fine abrasions into the very soft plastic surface. I would therefore go with a liquid product made specifically for plastic, sold by a firm which specializes in plastics.

Such a firm in my area is Modern Plastics. Here is their web main page and another page of their plastic cleaners/polishers:

http://modernplastics.com/

https://secure1.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=plastiweb&BusType=BtoC&Count1=402752101&Count2=319892525

[Bruce Watson]

First things first. Clean it first pass with distilled water. Use a clean, soft, non-scratching pad (like drum scanner operators use to clean film and acrylic drums without scratching).

To avoid scratching the laminate with the dirt you are trying to remove, you need to use the right technique. That is, you "roll" the pad as you make your stroke such that you lift the dirt up as you go. Never scrub, as this almost guarantees scratching. The killer is, you can't use the pad unless it's clean. So you can either use lots of pads, making sure that the surface that touches the print is always a clean surface, or you can use one pad and wash it after every stroke. This is why it takes so long when the curators and restorers at the museums do this kind of work.

Or, you could just take a hose to it - it's laminated onto Gatorfoam afterall. Clearly, YMMV.

[Paul Butzi]

Brillianize (www.brillianize.com/) is great stuff; I use it all the time on acrylic glazing.

Would it be appropriate for this use?

[matthew blais]

Dishsoap or water and vinegar mix.

[ronald moravec]

I would clean using a similar process to what is done with the clear coat automobiles. Never clean dry . Blow off all that will come off. Flush with water from a plant mister with the print on edge. This will rinse off as much as possible. Wipe down lightly with microfiber cloth folded to a pad. Refold to expose new area for each pass. Dry with light passes with new microfiber cloth. Use a light touch at all times and no circular motions.

If still not clean after one try, get a plastic cleaner for car detailing and repeat above with plastic cleaner.

Washing new cars needs to be done using a similar process to avoid all the circular swirl marks/scratches that are in most car finishes. If you are not careful, your car will look as it was washed with sandpaper after a few times. Car washes with recycled water and hanging dirty cloths or spinning brushes are death to a car finish. So are the guys hand drying it at the end whith scratchy towels who expect a tip.

[Steven Barall]

If you mean that there is a sheet of acrylic laminated to the front surface then you use Brillianize to clean the acrylic. You can get it at really good hardware stores, art supply stores or places that sell framing supplies.