No, what i'm saying is that I don't need a program to handle new RAW files as I only shoot film and scan on TIFF. I thought RAW was something that was specifically for digital cameras or am I mistaken?
No, what i'm saying is that I don't need a program to handle new RAW files as I only shoot film and scan on TIFF. I thought RAW was something that was specifically for digital cameras or am I mistaken?
I've moved back to 4x5 film as well and have been experimenting with Jon Cone's Piezography ink set. My understanding so far is that Gray Gamma 2.2 is essential and from what I can find out so far is that Photoshop is the only package that lets you set the Grayscale Management. Jon outlines this further in sections 4 &5 of his downloadable manual. None of the other packages that I contacted have it so by default, it looks like Photoshop is the one for me. As an aside, it might be worth having a look at his manual - he has some observations regarding scanning resolutions in Section 6.
Eventually I hope to learn how to contact print kallitypes and I picked up some Pictorico but that's still a work in progress - so much to do and so little time.
Regards
Dave
Last edited by DHodson; 7-Nov-2017 at 04:00.
Hello Sweep,
I did guess right. In your case, LR is out of use. It is a fantastic software. but you do not need it.
You should really find out Adobe Photoshop CS2. You will get it from Adobe for free. I cannot give you a strait link as I know that it is deeply buried in their site. But Google really is your friend and will help you.
In this version, you will find all what you need and asked for. It was when they released the Spot Healing Brush wich is a very efficient tool.
You will alsoe get ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) wich, even if it's name talks about RAW files, goes along with your TIFF files. You will be able to make all global corrections needed (Tonal, Colors, White Balance) and even some "tinting" (play with highlights & shadow to get hot or cold tints). Then he picture is opened in Photoshop where you can do all dodge and burn needed with masks. I don't really see what you mean by "Greyscale for black and white" but let's assume that you'll find it in it.
Nicks collection (wich I don't use) is a collection where you'll find different tools. The most exciting one (in my mind) is u-points where you can select a color and work on it on a restricted place (you can modify blues only, including, wether you choose it or not, sky or not for instance). The two other usefull tools are noise & sharpening. They can be used globaly or with u-points. You can, for instance, do a local sharpening on an eye, or denoise only the shadows of your velvia.
If you want to print digital negatives ; you will have to calibrate your printer. Go to http://http://www.botzilla.com and use Chart Throb. And then get the best of two worlds : your FP4 and the already dodged & burned contact negative. You can even considere doing alternative photography : you just have to calibrate your print.
Sharpening is going to be in the (steep) learning curve. The hard point is knowing how not to go to far and it is defenetely needed if you don't want your pictures to be too soft. Trys and errors are on your path...
J
That's pretty much how I work and what I usually need in software as well.Originally Posted by Sweep
Photoshop - dust removal, resizing, color balance
Lightroom - dodge & burn, greyscale, TIFF files, export
then back to PS to print
The question is will the Lightroom interface work for you?
You need to try it and compare to there software; I think LR is a fantastic way to dodge and burn. That can be done to an extremely accurate level and the process isn't complicated.
Here's a screengrab from Photoshop. I haven't found any other package with the Grayscale options.
I'm still learning my way around working spaces and colour management but my understanding is that embedding the Gamma 2.2 allows a proper match between what you see on the screen and what the printer will print with the Piezography ink set since the ink curves were developed using Gamma 2.2 and each respective paper. Also, apparently converting to single channel grayscale reduces the file size by 2/3 without losing anything as opposed to a colour managed 3 channel grayscale (ie RGB).
Maybe it isn't an issue if you're okay with the file sizes and you're staying with the OEM inks though. Epson's ABW driver looks like it produces good results.
Anyway, these are my understandings but if anyone knows differently, let me know.
Regards
Dave
Last edited by DHodson; 7-Nov-2017 at 10:15.
I've been using Darktable on Linux. They just ported it to Windows. I love it but the "spotting" tool is a little clumsy. So if I have to spot I'll use Lightroom. I was lucky it took me a day of googling to install the last non CC version of Lightroom.
--
Just tried Pixelmator, which is also available for a short term free trial (http://www.pixelmator.com/mac/free-trial/). It handled my 200MB greyscale LF scan pretty well, perhaps even faster than other software. I'm not a fan of the interface, but it does seem capable, and worth testing.
Gimp won't support 16-bit until version 2.10, it's at 2.8.22 now.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/drew_saunders/
Like Sweep, I'm considered a Luddite - especially by my granddaughters.
However, I have PS CS2, the free one for which you need an access code.
I also use Gimp 2.8., but I have problems 'understanding' how to make the best of Gimp.
CS2 also comes with ImageReady [a bitmap graphics editor] and Bridge [a digital asset management app]
For me CS2 works and Gimp 2.8 is kinda useful and both are free
regards
Tony
Hi Guys,
Sorry for my delayed reply but I have been working away all week and find it hard enough reading, and understanding (!), all your replies on a large screen never mind an ipad so I am now trying to catch up.
DHodson: Thanks for the referral to the Piezo site which I will check out. At the moment I am using OEM inks, well actually that's because I haven't yet printed anything so have the starter cartridges loaded. Like I said in my first post, the missing link in my set-up is that between scanner and printer. If only PS has greyscale and that is needed fro B&W then I guess that is where I'm heading.
Ventdesable: Following on from my reply to DHodson, thanks for the info about CS2 which, like you suggest, can be easily found via Google. I am sure I will never use a tenth of what will be available with the latest PS so i'm hoping the CS2 will suffice. I do have a Spyderprint so guess I will be able to formulate my own profiles if I do decide to change from OEM.
Ari: You use both LR and PS and swap between the two for different functions? I ask as you appear to dodge & burn within LR but Ventesable suggests it can be done in PS. Do I need both? I can actually do image correction in the Aurora scanner software but kind of didn't consider it because of the age (I know that probably sounds silly) so that is another option.
Ericantionio: I think dust removal and spotting will be really important due to the large negative size so the easier the better would be ideal
Drew: I suppose being a complete amateur means that I have no expectations of any interface so will give it a go this weekend. I'll throw a 1.2gb file at it and see how it like it!
Tonyowen: I'm going to give CS2 a go because it's free and I have nothing to lose. I guess it was a typo when you wrote "you need an access code" or do I actually need one?
Well I think ive found CS2 and got myself a login but everytime I click the CS2 link it takes me to buy the latest version :-(
http://www.adobe.com/uk/downloads/other-downloads.html
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