Calling all Pyrocat HD experts. I need your help!

[Bobby Sandstrom]

Hi all! I've finally bit the bullet and ordered my Pyrocat HD From PF in Liquid Form. It should be here tomorrow. I also ordered a box of efke pl100/ ilford fp4/ and I already have tmx 400. All 4x5 sheets.

My request if youd be so kind to help me here...

I need (start) Times Temps Dillutions Agitation frequency for N, N+1, N+2, N-1, N-2 for fp4 efke100 and tmax 400.

I'll be processing in a slosher or can also process in a jobo cpp2. I'd prefer the intermitent agitation though for the accutance factor... hence the slosher.

With great appreciation, I thank you and look forward any and all thoughts.

Bob

[Michael Kadillak]

Process in the Jobo to start out. Slowest agitation possible with a 5 minute water pre soak.

Everything you requested is at unblinkingeye.com. Sandy King authored a well researched and probably the most definitative article available on Pyrocat HD that you should read before you proceed. Depending upon your printing criteria (silver, Azo or alt process) you will find times, temps and other instructions in as much detail as you could possibly ask for.

Cheers!

[Steve Sherman]

Just my 2 cents...

Decide, start, learn, explore, adjust and finish with one film, one film developer and one
final process before moving onto another variable. Everyone has different methods with
different products which is OK so long as they remain consistent. Like I said, just my 2
cents.

[John Berry ( Roadkill )]

http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/startframe.html

[John Berry ( Roadkill )]

Here is a better one
http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Pyrocat/pyrocat.html

[Alan Babbitt]

I recommend you at least try stand development with the Pyrocat. I have had great results with 1:1:300 with a 1-minute initial agitation followed by a couple inversions of the tank (I use a 2-liter JOBO that holds 12 sheets of 4x5) about halfway through the development time, which is about 50 minutes for the several different films I've used. I don't adjust times or techniques for different films and I get consistently excellent results. Most negatives print easily at #2 or #2 1/2 contrast filter. I've tried a lot of different developers over the years and stand development using either Rodinal or Pyrocat is by far the most consistent and best for the negatives I produce. Your mileage may vary, of course.

[John Berry ( Roadkill )]

I use semi stand development. Must be done vertically. I use 1.5-1-200 for 20-23 min. 1 1/2 min inital agitation and 2 asa agitations half way thru. Me negs are keyed to the new #2 Azo and carbon contact processes, so my negs are pretty high CI.