Does the cold light head fit into the hole in the second picture? It should. Then slide the two clamps backwards.
Does the cold light head fit into the hole in the second picture? It should. Then slide the two clamps backwards.
How are the condensers installed and what order. They wrapped them up when they disassembled the enlarger.
Look at the part in picture #1 that says 45MX with the three color bands. The condenser cells should be in that piece. They are not easy to remove. If you have condenser elements inside the "plastic bag" it is either another set, or you have some work to do! Send us a picture of what is in the "bag".
Try reading the manual. I have not. Link below.
I believe if condensers are different sizes they are for smaller than 4X5 formats.
http://www.jollinger.com/photo/cam-c...eler_45mxt.pdf
A couple of things.
The Zone VI cold-light head will work fine with VC papers. Use the below-lens filters. The exact filter spacing may be different than that with a tungsten light source.
The "Compensating Metronome" is the timer for the cold light head. It varies the length of its "seconds" with changes in light intensity so you don't need a stabilizer. You plug it into the sensor plug on the head. You will have to learn to enlarge by counting seconds instead or relying on a timer. It's easy, just count seconds and block the light or step on the footswitch when done with the exposure.
Mounting the cold-light head: The aluminum adapter ring goes into the hole and can be held in place with the two sliding clamps. It's not important unless you plan on using the horizontal projection feature on the enlarger. The cold-light head itself is press fit into the ring. It originally came with a rubber bead that is, or is identical to, the bead used to secure screening in frames. If yours is gone, a trip to the hardware store is all you need.
The Zone VI compensating developing timer is for monitoring the temperature of your developer. Like the metronome, it changes the length of its "seconds" so you don't have to worry about temperature control (within reason). There are three settings, film, paper and "real time," and inset screw controls for light intensity and volume. The weak spot on these is the temperature probe (the L-shaped bracket that should be attached to your developer tray or water bath). Test it with different temperatures of water and be sure the "seconds" are lengthening with cooler temps and becoming shorter with higher.
Best,
Doremus
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