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Thread: Architectural Photography Tips?

  1. #11
    tim atherton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 1998
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    Architectural Photography Tips?

    Brian,

    I've done lots of architectural photography with a Toyo 45A before I got an Arca for the times I need more movement. At first much of it was done with a 90mm f8 (Nikon) 50mm and 250mm - only later on did I get a 75mm, 125mm and a 250mm, 300mm etc and various other lenses.

    With the 90mm Nikon I can get enough rise on the Toyo for most exteriors unless it's a multi storey building (bellows scrunch up a bit) certainly enough for most of the exteriors I did.
    Also, if you spend some time hunting through the archives here, there are lots of hints on architectural photography.

    Neither transparency nor colour neg are as "archival" as B&W tends to be - but unless you are shooting for a rigorously controlled programme of documentation, either would be good - best choice would be the one you are most comfortable with/used to shooting. Both have their pros and cons for different circumstances, but this project probably isn't the time to be going through a learning curve like that...

    Check you library for the McGrath book and also any of the books from the HABS/HAER project

    http://www.cr.nps.gov/habshaer/

    (Their photo manual is very technical - but it might give you some ideas on how to document your shoot - photos without documentation aren't much use to an archive - etc
    http://www.cr.nps.gov/habshaer/habs/guidelines/photospecs.pdf )

    Indeed, hunt around at the library for any books documenting historic buildings (or in fact, archliberal photography in general) - get some ideas from them of approaches to take and figure out how the shots were done - without restricting yourself, give yourself a checklist of ideas to cover for each building.

    In fact I nearly always find it valuable to check out the buildings first - as my old Sgt Major used to say "time spent in reconnaissance is seldom wasted..." You can see what the possibilities are, what might work, what problem their could be with physical access, where the light falls at different times of the day etc.
    You'd be amazed how small the demand is for pictures of trees... - Fred Astaire to Audrey Hepburn

    www.photo-muse.blogspot.com blog

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    538

    Architectural Photography Tips?

    These buildings will be lit by the sun.

    The sun's angle will determine the beauty of the lighting.

    The sun will be constantly moving.

    The buildings don't move.

    It is critical to know which way the buildings face and where the sun will be (azimuth and elevation) at each minute of the day.

    Check a local road map for the position of the building facades.

    Find sun information online from NOAA or commercially from the Sunpath computer program.

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
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    538

    Architectural Photography Tips?

    p.s. - Just which time of day and sun position to chose is what will make you a great outdoor photographer.

    p.p.s. - The Sunpath program is on sale until the end of the month:

    http://store.yahoo.com/cinemasupplies/sunsoffowwin.html

  4. #14

    Architectural Photography Tips?

    Not as much fun, but all you need for a website is 35mm with a couple of shift lenses. 4x5 just doesn`t come across on a monitor as better. Photoshop will resolve any perspective issues you can`t solve with the shift glass.

    Go there at least once without a camera and observe the light and figure out what the best time is to get proper lighting. Then wait for decent weather.

    North facing buildings are a pain as you only get sun early morning and late evening in June when the sun raises and sets as far north as it gets.

  5. #15
    multiplex
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
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    local
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    5,357

    Architectural Photography Tips?

    brian -

    i have done a fair amount of habs/haer photography and the most used lens in my "kit" is a 90mm lens.
    i use the longer lenses for detail shots - ornament, design feature &C, but for the most part it is the 90mm.

    from the habs manual, they look for well exposed, well composed ( no stuff like cars & people walking into the frame ) perspective controlled images. they look for a building in the context of where it sits ( streetscape view &C) ... and 3/4 perspective shots ( front elevation and side, back elevation and side ) elevation shots ( if there is an important feature that can't be seen well in 3/4 view, or if a 3/4 view can not be taken ) and detail shots ( brackets, ornament, cornice-line, window detail, clerestory, builder's placque &C).

    if the building is a industrial building, you will want to include the dam, sluce/tail race, spur/rail line - external aspects of the building that help it "work" ... historic preservation or archaeological lingo for this is "feature system"

    if you can get far enough back you can probably get away with the toyo field-view ( i have used a speed graphic at times ), otherwise, as some have suggested, you might rent a view camera.

    don't forget to have fun!

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Pennsylvania
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    Architectural Photography Tips?

    Thanks to everyone for all your help! I have a better idea about what I'm planning to do now. You can always email if you have anymore suggestions! Thanks again!

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