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Thread: CLS 301 Restoration

  1. #21

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Germany
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    451

    Re: CLS 301 Restoration

    Quote Originally Posted by LabRat View Post
    I agree with removing the power supply, as Durst electronics are not reliable, and over-engineered to a fault...
    In my opinion, they have been reliable decades ago.
    Reading the electrical drawings sounds very professional and brainful.
    The Dursts have been sold to thousands of professional photographers who normally preferred reliable equipment.

    What we are using today is a 40 to 50 years old electric box, which often layed in dark cellars before.
    Not using this units is of course the second reason for a sudden death.


    ""But the power supply might be reading high if you are measuring the voltage not under load (without the lamp in circuit)...""

    This step could be the main reason for killing EST units - I have been taught never to start them without lamps in circuit.

    JP, after reading my EST 300 / CLS 300 repair manual twice, there are some possible reasons for destroying your bulbs.
    Unfortunately this manual is for german voltage only, but listen, their exist two versions of my EST 301 one for 220 Volt, and another for 240 Volt.
    So it may exist 120/140 or other versions?
    Check this first, because this results in different control units.
    Changing the main voltage results in changing the bulb voltage, which the EST has to avoid via special groups, and maybe one of this groups has too much to do, or is already broken.

    I am not able to translate the complete manual, and of course I am missing electrical knowledge, but I am sure that an electric special force could run your 301 after checking and/or adjusting the EST unit.

    The main part of your EST is stabilizing the voltage to the bulbs which gives best results to your prints.
    Try not to give up this option.

    The unit contains thermo control and upheating systems, so after plugging to voltage, waiting for some minutes is required - says the manual.

    Best,
    Ritchie

  2. #22

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    Mar 2011
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    Re: CLS 301 Restoration

    Looking at my Durst documents again (accessoiries for Laborators), there have been parts ( LaCoLi) for using either with 125Volt, 140Volt, or 160Volt.
    This could be a hint...

  3. #23

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    Mar 2011
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    Germany
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    Re: CLS 301 Restoration

    Henning, if the "black cylinder" is shown after openeing the cover byside and after removing the "Mischschacht", then this should be a Thermostat / thermo switch S1.

    On, and off, in my understanding, at the edge of 80 degrees Celsius says the manual of the CLS 300.
    As far as I know, the cables there function as a Widerstand, whats the english name, resistator ?
    From my diagram of the CLS 300 they must have a length of 80mm .

    I will offer the complete documents to the forum, step by step, please have some patience, I now have to work a bitt.
    To be continued,
    Ritchie

  4. #24

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    Re: CLS 301 Restoration

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  5. #25
    Drew Wiley
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    SF Bay area, CA
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    Re: CLS 301 Restoration

    The fan was originally meant to start automatically when you turned on the power supply. If you split circuits, you'll need to remember to do this manually. I use a dedicated footswitch. New generic power supplies can also be employed. The original Durst units very slightly reduced bulb voltage to prolong their life; but ELH bulbs can be so durable compared to most enlarger bulbs, that this is a non-issue, as far as I'm concerned. There were also minor conveniences in the circuitry like dimly lighting up the filter dials on the color head that are superfluous.

  6. #26
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Feb 2007
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    Re: CLS 301 Restoration

    Does anyone know if the EST301 just switches on the fan whenever the lights are on, or does it do something more elaborate (e.g., measure temperature or let the fan run for 20s after the lights were on)?
    In a non-commercial setting, the fan on my CLS2000 head only runs when the lamp is on. There is a thermistor circuit to keep the fans going if things get hot. The fans only stayed on after I did a bunch of non-stop exposures for test strips to check the filters. In all other cases, the head cools down on its own between prints.

    One could easily run the fans from a switch by your timer. Flip it on before exposure and flip it off after exposure. For ten bucks you could mount a remote-sensor electronic thermometer in the head just to be sure.
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    Since you asked about fans, I'll relay other information from my darkroom

    Philips 150 about 80W: Cooling fins, No fan
    Minolta Mod III about 80W: Cooling fins, No fan
    Omega D5500 200W: Fan runs all the time

  7. #27
    Drew Wiley
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    Sep 2008
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    SF Bay area, CA
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    10,591

    Re: CLS 301 Restoration

    The fan in this case is nominal 240V, while the lamps are 120V. But even if they were the same, the combined wattage would be too much for most conventional darkroom timers. This is a commercial machine for which colorheads up to 2000 watts were made. I've rebuilt those monsters too.

  8. #28

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Madisonville, LA
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    1,383

    Re: CLS 301 Restoration

    My recollection is that the fan ran when the head got hot. I can't recall if it ran when you first turned the lights on to print, or if it started when the head got hot, and turned off after it cooled down, after the lights shut off. I seem to recall short printing times when the fan never turned on.

    You can buy an external fan (which is what the CLS 301 head uses anyway) and run it all the time while printing. Just get a fan(120v or 240v depending on your power) connect it to the head with a flex hose and unplug it once the head has cooled down after your printing session. This is what I did to have a backup the the Durst Lafan.

    On my DeVere 5108, the fan runs continuously when you turn on the power supply. May not be as elegant, but is probably more reliable.

  9. #29
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Feb 2007
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    Re: CLS 301 Restoration

    Good working timers can be expensive and/or hard to find these days, maybe run both the fan and head from a contactor.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #30

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    Zurich, CH
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    6

    Re: CLS 301 Restoration

    Luckily, the Durst LAFAN came with the enlarger so it's more a question of how best to control it. It only pulls 55W so it might be possible to have it running in parallel from a big timer. The RH Designs one seems to still be available and has an output of 750W, which would cover the 2 bulbs and the fan. Unfortunately, it is a little pricey and it would only run the fan whenever the bulbs are on.

    I like the idea of a contactor to switch the fan and the head. It seems more involved but it would give me the option of adding adding a temperature control...

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