eclipse_exposures002.pdf
Here's a set of exposure recommendations from the KODAK astronomical photo guide from the 1970s. In text that accompanies the table there is a recommendation to bracket plus and minus three stops.
eclipse_exposures002.pdf
Here's a set of exposure recommendations from the KODAK astronomical photo guide from the 1970s. In text that accompanies the table there is a recommendation to bracket plus and minus three stops.
I'm thinking about observing and photographing the eclipse from San Francisco with a 10" Meade SCT at prime focus (2500mm equivalent) equipped with a solar filter. The Meade has dual axis electronic drive (tracks in both declination and right ascension) which eliminates problems due to the earth's rotation making a several second exposure doable.
Thomas
I'm curious what the landscape EV light level would be during totality?
I have photographed partial eclipses and I seem to remember there was at least a 4 stop difference then, the quality of the light drastically changed (dead & non directional), and the warm temp dropped at least 10-15 deg F... (bring sweatshirt or jacket, too)Originally Posted by David Lobato
A camera with a large film load or a lotta chip space, your choice of longer lens, TTL metering, and proper solar filter will make the day... (Better to use a smaller camera, and plan on enlargements...)
If all else fails, have a end of the world party, and dance naked before the angry sun gods to divert end game events... ;-)
Steve K
Because most of the atmosphere of the earth remains in sunlight the sky is not as black as midnight, however from what I have read, at totality, I expect it to be very dark, flashlights are required.
Anybody else have trouble getting this file to open? This is exactly the info I'm looking for....I think.
And since this seems to the Eclipse Discussion Thread, I'd sure like some advice on exposure for the "totality" using some HP5+ on a 4x5 camera. Anyone?
My plans are to set up a Nikon D300 using some solar filter material in a LEE holder during the partial eclipse phase, than I'd sure like to make a few decent exposures during the totality on some 400 speed film. I plan to use my longest lens, a 305 G-Claron on my Sinar outfit with HP5+ film for this. I understand no filter will be necessary during the totality phase and I'm hoping I can get good exposures of 1 second or less with the lens wide-ish open. Anyone have thoughts on this? I'd hate for exposures to have to be in the several second+ range and have to deal with reciprocity and other issues, not to mention the blur and distortion of the corona stuff during long exposure. I do plan to bracket a few exposures, but I also don't want to spend the whole two minutes or so of the totality fumbling around with film holders and miss the whole experience of seeing this event.
Anyway, I'd sure appreciate a little advice if anyone has any....
A good idea is to securely fasten down the filter + holder so it can't fall off, and seal off the edges so there is no flare or leakage...
Another good addition is to get a piece of 2' square black foam core, put a hole in it for the lens shade, and mount it on the front of your lens, so it acts as a shade for you while you are viewing or operating your camera, as you are directly facing the sun with the sun directly in your eyes...
Even with the solar filter, the image is still quite bright so exposures are shorter, and a good way to center the frame is there is still a lot of flare (even with the filter) so center the ring of flare on the frame... Expect to place the highlight on the always present corona ring and expect the moon to be in shadow... Sky will be dark, except corona and flare ring due to filter but your exposure will be the same throughout the eclipse due to sun highlight, unless you are shooting your surroundings... Having an auto setting can be helpful, but the thin corona ring brightness might fool TTL systems...
I really don't think it is a LF moment, so think/shoot small...
Test the camera rig outside on the full sun well before event to shake out bugs in the system...
Steve K
Well Steve, you surely did not read this recommendation for the exposure during the eclipse - f/16 with a 5.0 ND filter and f/11 with no filter at all for the different sun phases. That's a huge difference.
The sun is still as bright when it is behind the moon, and it's limbs are still visible... Moon is still in shadow... There is a brightness change during a lunar eclipse, but a tele view of a solar event is about the same... The recommendations are assuming a perfect, full eclipse, but there is always some limb showing... It might control the outer corona level a little, but that is usually lost to flare anyway...
I've shot a few of these, made mistakes, and had successes, so I know where to aim the camera... ;-)
Steve K
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