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Thread: How to put a barrel lens in a shutter

  1. #11
    Angus Parker angusparker's Avatar
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    Re: How to put a barrel lens in a shutter

    How very clever but simple.

    Quote Originally Posted by Steven Tribe View Post
    The classic T-P design involved a thin, removable, lens board in front which was fixed to a particular lens. Later, the same curtain system with speeds of up to about 1/90 sec was mounted in a more secure box design with adjustable mounts for a range of lens hood diameters. Superb system for heavy Petzvals and big aplanats. A lot of these are of no-name manufacture.

    Photos show the same front shutter on the first 3 Petzvals I fished out this morning!

    External hood diameters are from 9-11.5 cm.

  2. #12
    IanG's Avatar
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    Re: How to put a barrel lens in a shutter

    This is what I use, I have one or two, well maybe 50 Large TP and similar shutters are less common and you usually need to fully restore them. Steven has shown a front mounting TP shutter others were Between lens, meaning between lens and lens board, they have inter changeable front plates so can be used with different lenses. Often the front mounted versions have damaged/split cases because they've later been used Between lens, their cases aren't strong enough. They were sold by B&J with their name on them in the US, often with the less common Aluminium casing

    There's also the Norca shutters, LUC and similar, and also TP and other Focal plane shutters, I have a few of them.

    Ian

  3. #13

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    Re: How to put a barrel lens in a shutter

    thanks for sharing, I was looking for exactly the same kind of information as I have a few barrel lens and other 2 old shutters that does not work anymore.

    I also found this Youtube video on how someone mount a lens on a Speed Graphic focal plane shutter
    https://youtu.be/pAjyYixKXm8

  4. #14

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    Re: How to put a barrel lens in a shutter

    Thinking more about the TP shutters, if you were making or massively rebuilding a group of them, I imagine you could get faster speeds by making the slit in the curtain smaller/narrower. This is how my OM-1 works, we'll sort of, it has two curtains and variable speeds but the idea is similar, for the faster shutter speeds the second curtain filled more and more closely the first one. This can make for strange distortion of moving objects (cars with oval tires).

    I've also wondered if you couldn't build a spring or rubber band powered linear shutter with interchangeable Souls plastic or metal sheets for the curtain.

    Finally, aren't Neutral Density filters sometimes helpful when shutters are limited?

  5. #15
    IanG's Avatar
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    Re: How to put a barrel lens in a shutter

    Quote Originally Posted by Fr. Mark View Post
    Thinking more about the TP shutters, if you were making or massively rebuilding a group of them, I imagine you could get faster speeds by making the slit in the curtain smaller/narrower. This is how my OM-1 works, we'll sort of, it has two curtains and variable speeds but the idea is similar, for the faster shutter speeds the second curtain filled more and more closely the first one. This can make for strange distortion of moving objects (cars with oval tires).
    That's how some of the "High Speed" TP roller blind shutter work, I bought a box of Graflex and other parts from Frnce (Paris) off this forum a few years ago and have a High Speed TP half plate shutter, It's not practical because you can't focus with it's narrow slit so I will change the curtain so I get 1/10 to 1/90 rather than the 1/150 to 1/1000 and will adjust to fit one of my half plate cameras. However a high speed TP shutter to fit the front of a lens is practical and I've made a couple, they were once sold commercially.

    The cloth shutters in modern SLRs are essentially miniature versions of the Unit shutters used in Thornton Pickard Ruby Reflex cameras which have two separate curtains each with their own rollers and you adjust the slit width. Earlier versions used two curtains joined by adjustable strings to set the slit width, these are the least practical and few seem to have survived - I have one to restore.

    Ian

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