Shooting Checklist

[Leigh]

#23 Remove Darkcloth. Not sure about this one. I have always used the darkcloth to cover the camera back when removing and inserting a darkslide.

I leave the darkcloth on all the time also.

I missed that item in the list.

- Leigh

[angusparker]

I leave the darkcloth on all the time also.

I missed that item in the list.

- Leigh

That's really interesting. I can't see how I could slide the film holder into the camera given that my dark cloth has an elastic opening. Plus sliding out the dark slide would be hard too. I also use the dark cloth to prop up my bellows.....


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[Graham Patterson]

That's really interesting. I can't see how I could slide the film holder into the camera given that my dark cloth has an elastic opening. Plus sliding out the dark slide would be hard too. I also use the dark cloth to prop up my bellows.....
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I think that should be under the local rules addendum for elasticated dark cloths. Come to think of it, there should probably be an addendum for shutter-less lenses...

Joking aside, it does pay to find a sequence of operations that works and stick to it. There are special conditions (for me) like bellows extension, reciprocity correction, and some filter factors, that only apply to a subset of images. Others might use them all the time and just fold it into the exposure calculation without much thought.

[Doremus Scudder]

Angus,

Your list seems a bit over-detailed for me too. I really only concentrate on the things that are not fail-safe and likely to cause errors.

For me, choosing the lens happens before I set up the camera; I use a viewing frame and have a good idea of composition and lens before I unpack. If I mount a wrong lens, it's obvious when initially viewing the image and I change to a better one.

Leveling the camera is part of image management for me. For architectural work, I level carefully and use shifts and rise along with the grid to frame my shot. For shots with the horizon in them, I'll level vertically and use the grid to orient the camera back. For many other shots, I frame as desired, which may not be level.

All my lenses have dedicated cable releases, no fiddling with that with recessed boards and cold hands on winter days for me!

I don't need to worry about opening the shutter and aperture for viewing; can't see a thing unless I do...

Focusing and applying movements is all a part of image management for me as well. I include in this finding the focus spread and choosing the optimum aperture based on that. Also, mounting and orienting a polarizing filter if I need one happens here.

Metering, applying filter, bellows and reciprocity factors and choosing a shutter speed based on that and my optimum aperture is one step for me. Unless I'm doing table-top work or real close-ups, I don't measure my bellows. You'll quickly find at about what subject-to-camera distance you need to start worrying about bellows extension compensation.

When I get ready to shoot, my check list comes into play.

1.Tighten all tripod head knobs, especially the pan knob so I don't swing the camera when inserting the holder (don't ask me why I'm so careful here )
2. Add filters if I want them, close to taking aperture and check for vignetting.
3. Close the shutter (however the particular shutter I'm using works)
4. Set the shutter speed.
5. Cock and fire the shutter and cock it again (this ensures step one has been done).
6. Check to make sure the side of the filmholder I plan to use is the correct one, i.e., not already exposed (don't ask ... )
7. Insert holder and make sure it is seated correctly
8. Pinch the spring back to the rear standard and remove the darkslide.
9. Make the exposure asap after removing the darkslide and replace it quickly with the exposed side facing out, pinching the back as above.
10. Stow the holder and make my notes.
11. Take down making sure to return the camera to "zero position" if any movements have been used.

That's about it. And I don't really have a list, just a routine that I try not to vary too much from to prevent errors.

Best,

Doremus

[Drew Bedo]

Each of my lenses have a dedicated cable release attached. They are stored with the shutter uncocked and the preview lever in the open position. When the lens is mounted, it is ready to go.

When shooting the last thing before pulling the slide is to cock the shutter. I then fire it to check that the preview lever is cloded and to double check the speed by sound (OK that's not really close tyo being an effective test, but ai listen anyway).

Composing, focusing and adjusting movements may b e a work-flow loop resulting in relocating the whole operation a few feet or way-over-there.

My lenses and other bits of gesr are stored in individual boxes (PhotoBackpacker) pouches or bags (Crown Royal), then stowed back into a camera bag. If there is an empty box, pouchor bag laying around, there is something loose thet musdt be found.

As Dornious said above, no list or protocol, mostly routine.

[angusparker]

Angus,

Your list seems a bit over-detailed for me too. I really only concentrate on the things that are not fail-safe and likely to cause errors.

For me, choosing the lens happens before I set up the camera; I use a viewing frame and have a good idea of composition and lens before I unpack. If I mount a wrong lens, it's obvious when initially viewing the image and I change to a better one.

Leveling the camera is part of image management for me. For architectural work, I level carefully and use shifts and rise along with the grid to frame my shot. For shots with the horizon in them, I'll level vertically and use the grid to orient the camera back. For many other shots, I frame as desired, which may not be level.

All my lenses have dedicated cable releases, no fiddling with that with recessed boards and cold hands on winter days for me!

I don't need to worry about opening the shutter and aperture for viewing; can't see a thing unless I do...

Focusing and applying movements is all a part of image management for me as well. I include in this finding the focus spread and choosing the optimum aperture based on that. Also, mounting and orienting a polarizing filter if I need one happens here.

Metering, applying filter, bellows and reciprocity factors and choosing a shutter speed based on that and my optimum aperture is one step for me. Unless I'm doing table-top work or real close-ups, I don't measure my bellows. You'll quickly find at about what subject-to-camera distance you need to start worrying about bellows extension compensation.

When I get ready to shoot, my check list comes into play.

1.Tighten all tripod head knobs, especially the pan knob so I don't swing the camera when inserting the holder (don't ask me why I'm so careful here )
2. Add filters if I want them, close to taking aperture and check for vignetting.
3. Close the shutter (however the particular shutter I'm using works)
4. Set the shutter speed.
5. Cock and fire the shutter and cock it again (this ensures step one has been done).
6. Check to make sure the side of the filmholder I plan to use is the correct one, i.e., not already exposed (don't ask ... )
7. Insert holder and make sure it is seated correctly
8. Pinch the spring back to the rear standard and remove the darkslide.
9. Make the exposure asap after removing the darkslide and replace it quickly with the exposed side facing out, pinching the back as above.
10. Stow the holder and make my notes.
11. Take down making sure to return the camera to "zero position" if any movements have been used.

That's about it. And I don't really have a list, just a routine that I try not to vary too much from to prevent errors.

Best,

Doremus

Very helpful. Will try and shorten my overly long list!


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[Vaughn]

Many times under the redwoods, I will set up the camera, put lens on (w/ cable release soon after), and compose/focus the image, toss in the holder, etc, and get the exposure started...then meter. When the exposure time is going to be in minutes, I might as well get the exposure started while the light is right! Long exposures give me plenty of time to make all the notes before the exposure is over. I have also been known to nap during an exposure, but I would not put that down on a checklist...

[loonatic45414]

Is this a forum for newbies? You have to remind yourself which side of the film holder to shoot with? Maybe we need to add remove pacifier from mouth & wipe drool too.

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[faberryman]

Everyone was a newbie at one time, even you.

[Merg Ross]

Is this a forum for newbies? You have to remind yourself which side of the film holder to shoot with? Maybe we need to add remove pacifier from mouth & wipe drool too.

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Your comment is rude and contributes nothing to the forum.