thanks for the tip on keeping the drum level.
I hv put up the Arduino sketch (code) on my blog. Be warned that I am no coder. I pieced the code from various sample codes and modified it to suit my needs.
http://sgwetplate.com/2016/11/arduin...ilm-processor/
Why the one second pause between cycles? if your 4.5 second rotation step is exactly reproducible in reverse (same number and fractions of a drum rotation) you risk a 10% increased development zone. Since you do not pause between forward and reverse, there does not seem to be a mechanical need for a pause. Otherwise I would have expected the pause time to be split between the two directions.
I am not saying you are wrong - I just want to understand why it is done this way, and if it has any effect in practice. My Jobos (a CPE and CPE+) both take a fraction of a second to reverse, and actually rotate a different number of rotations (the CPE is mechanically reversed and rotates less per cycle). There is also a slight drift between forward and back, so over a few minutes the tank progresses in one direction.
You are actually inspiring me to get my Jobo timed start and temperature reporting application up and running. The Raspberry Pi has all the hardware - I need to finish the code so I can remote interrogate it from the main house.
Ha good question. the part of the code was taken from another project I did earlier where there is a pause period before the motor reverse. So what I did was only to change the timings involved. I guess it can be easily change to remove the pause but I have not really run enough sheets through to see the impact of it.
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I think I would ensure that the rotation is something over two revolutions per direction, up to maybe 5. On the other hand, many people get by happily with a uni-directional drive. The nice thing is you have complete control, and room to experiment.
Hi Pound. I was really inspired by your project and made me want to build mine.
Based on your project, and willing to process color C41 films, I wanted to couple it to a heated water bath.
I already planned to recycle a old electric kettle to use the heater with an fish tank thermostat so this part would be easy.
But, as I never used an Arduino in my life, I wanted to know if you'd like to share your wiring schema with us ? The code part seems pretty clear to me, but I cant catch how you wired the moto to the motor shield, then to the arduino (and the same for LCD to arduino).
It has been a long time since you posted here, but I'll give it a chance
(Excuse my english)
Experienced that same very gradual movement of the drum. Fortunately it was always in the same direction, so I glued a piece of thin plastic to one of the insides of my darkroom sink. Place my Unicolor roller base with the JOBO drum's base a 1/4 of an inch away from the plastic. As it spins, the drum slowly creeps to be in contact with plastic which stops it from rolling off the Unicolor roller base. After dozens of time doing this, I have yet to see any wear on the bases of my JOBO drums.
hi there , just saw yr post.
For Arduino the shields just get stacked up. So the first layer is the Arduino UNO board, then I inserted in the motor shield on top followed by the LCD shield.
If you go to the my blog http://sgwetplate.com/2016/11/arduin...ilm-processor/ , I linked to the different shield pages(for example https://www.dfrobot.com/wiki/index.p..._(SKU:_DRI0001) and then from there you have to look at the documentation to see which pin should you use. The shield I used is pretty old so I am now sure how useful would be a wiring diagram be for you as newer shield might use different pins. Let me know if you still need one and I will see how I can get one done.
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