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Thread: Framing question

  1. #11
    Drew Wiley
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    Re: Framing question

    Here's another bend in the road: Gator was frequently used for high-gloss prints like Ciba, where the high mil-thickness of the polyester base material was itself
    a superb barrier between any hypothetical acidity and the emulsion itself. Some categories of acrylic adhesive foils still exist which contain solvents that are bad - you gotta be careful about those (sound familiar, Bob) - they were engineered for relatively short-term outdoor advertising use, not fine artwork. Otherwise, like I just noted, read the specs, not the rumors. None of these hard substrates are necessary for fiber-based prints anyway. This is a complex subject. Some kinds of prints don't get along with buffered alkaline substrates, so don't just assume an "archival" designation is automatically safe.

  2. #12
    bob carnie's Avatar
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    Jan 2004
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    Re: Framing question

    Gator stinks, I will go on record , only used up here for low end commercial purposes, In the 80's gator was king, now its Diabond and Aluminum.

  3. #13
    Drew Wiley
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    Sep 2008
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    Re: Framing question

    Aluminum is a horrible insulator. Unless you have a secondary backing, or it has a sufficiently thick cell core itself, it can promote condensation in the framing sandwich. Dry forced air heating is not routine around here. We have more of what could be called mild damp winter than a cold one. Then Spring arrives and
    the soil gets steamed with the rising temps. Mildew heaven. Dibond is also unrealistically expensive for routine framing, especially when a quantity of prints are
    kept on hand for potential sale, and not just mounted for a known installation. And I certainly wouldn't want a stack of Dibond-mounted prints in a big flat file,
    where the risk of mildew increases all the more. UltraBoard is a good alternative.

  4. #14
    Jim Jones's Avatar
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    Aug 2006
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    Chillicothe Missouri USA
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    Re: Framing question

    Quote Originally Posted by vinny View Post
    . . . I wouldn't rely on clips holding a print that size (or any size for me). . . .
    I agree. It's better to pad out the space between the mount board and the back of metal frames with foam core and perhaps a bit of mat board to make a snug fit.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Brewster, NY
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    Re: Framing question

    Thank you all for your contributions to my education regarding print mounting and backing techniques. Invaluable!

  6. #16
    Drew Wiley
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    Sep 2008
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    Re: Framing question

    Clips work just fine on huge prints if you have the correct moulding profile. For example, pro frame shops have access to a significantly larger selection of Nielsen moulding than do-it-yourselfers. I have often made my own hardwood mouldings adapted for clips, though now have an even better way of retaining the print sandwich which also allows easy frame re-use. I don't make frames much bigger than four feet across, though I have equipment clients who make custom frames over twenty feet across - and I'm talking gallery-style framing, not advertising applications. If someone has the bucks, it can be done. For example, the inner frame might be welded steel, then have a custom thick veneer of hardwood precisely wrapped around that, so everything stays perfectly straight and well supported. These kinds of projects are a lot of fun to be involved with, but way over my personal needs or budget. I really don't like printing my own 8x10 negs
    bigger than 4X enlargement anyway.

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