Questions for Steve Sherman and Sandy King

[j.e.simmons]

I read the thread on Michael A. Smith's site as it was developing last year and tried what Sandy now calls extreme minimal agitation as well as minimal agitation (agitate 1.5 minutes at the beginning then for 10-seconds every three minutes). I developed Efke PL-100 in tubes with Pyrocat HD at both the 1:1:150 dulution and 5:3:300.

I found the benefits that have been described, but I found two problems, also. First, if I had any significant amount of sky in the photos, I got very mottled development in the sky portions. Second, sometimes I would get greatly increased density along the edges of the negatives. This was more noticeable on 8x10 than on 4x5 for 2-1/4 x 3-1/4.

For the time being, I've returned to brush development until I've had more time to think about, and perhaps read about these problems.

[sanking]

"I found the benefits that have been described, but I found two problems, also. First, if I had any significant amount of sky in the photos, I got very mottled development in the sky portions. Second, sometimes I would get greatly increased density along the edges of the negatives. This was more noticeable on 8x10 than on 4x5 for 2-1/4 x 3-1/4."

I can understand the mottling in the sky areas, which is one of the main reasons I avoid this form of development whenever there is a lot of sky in the scene.

The greatly increased density along the edges of the negatives, however, is something I have not experienced. Could you explain how you were developing the film, and what kind of container you used.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I occasionally use stand development in tubes 4x5 and 8x10. I have found that subjects of normal to low contrast work better than high contrast (for me anyways). The dangers can be horrific mottling and streaking, which has happened a lot to me especially for stand with no agitation (only at beginning for a minute). If I do intermittant agitation (5 secs every 20 min, and removing the film and replacing inverted) helps eliminate this...but not always! Trays never worked but with intermittant agitation (5 secs every 10 min) it was good. It is important to make extra exposures just in case. When stand development works, it's fantastic.

[chris_4622]

The method I have been using is pyrocat hd in tubes, plastic pipe, with slow continuous agitation. After reading the article in VC I went to Michael & Paula's site and read the thread mentioned above. Earlier in the week I photographed a grain bin and took two shots inside. I decided to try the stand method with one of the negs. using my tube. I filled it up and put the cap on which ended up leaving some air space at the top. I slowly turned the tube over end to end for 1 1/2 minutes then let it stand for the remaining first quarter, following Sandy's method of agitation at the beginning of each quarter hour. Though I turned end for end for 15 seconds instead of ten. After an hour I stopped and fixed. There was a definite difference between the shot developed normally (continuous agitation) and the stand method. I have no way to measure the density (I have a densitometer but I don't think it will work for stained negs.) or to print them yet. If anyone is interested in seeing them I could send them out.

There is a note of caution here, when putting the film in the tube I left it towards the top open end and when I left the tube stand to develop I always left it with that end facing down to insure the developer would cover the film. There will be some developer loss when the cap is screwed on with air pushing on it. I suppose a small pin hole would releave this pressure but then you would have to seal this for the duration of development.

Thank you Andrew for your help with getting me started with times for developing Efke 25.

[Robert McClure]

Chris,
I, for one, would like to see the photos. Many thanks!!

[Robert McClure]

Many thanks, guys!!

Once again, I really appreciate each and every response. I have been studying/reading/asking questions about all this while simultaneously re-setting up darkroom and preparing my camera, etc.

Best Regards,