For wood to wood lubrication, I like to use pure beeswax.
I've had a few candle stubs left over from a hospital chapel (my photography needs all the help I can get) and used them up but I recently got a small chunk from beekeeper at a farmer's market
For metal to metal, Lubriplate product 630-AA is what's recommended for 'dorffs---it's much thicker than regular Lubriplate so it's not going to dribble off onto the wood.
Good luck! It sounds like a really cool project
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
If the key you need is square, measure it and see if the hardware store has square stock steel in that dimension. For the handle end of the key you can get as fancy as you want, from a simple bend "L" to wings like a wind up toy.
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
thanks john !Originally Posted by John Kasaian
For wood to wood lubrication, I like to use pure beeswax.
I've had a few candle stubs left over from a hospital chapel (my photography needs all the help I can get) and used them up but I recently got a small chunk from beekeeper at a farmer's market
For metal to metal, Lubriplate product 630-AA is what's recommended for 'dorffs---it's much thicker than regular Lubriplate so it's not going to dribble off onto the wood.
Good luck! It sounds like a really cool project
ribbon spring gluing in place as i attempt to type this with sticky gorilla gluie digits!
beeswax! i got some of that
now, if i can figure out how to put the puzzle back together .. that i think is the hard part
Unless the stand is different from mine, I don't see why the metal parts need lubrication.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Don't use Gorilla Glue... It is strong, but soft, but WAY too messy to use, and does not clean-up well... It will bubble out of the glued joints with it's tell-tail rabid yellow foam, and as soon as you touch it somehow, it will transfer to the next dozen or so things you touch... You will find some on your clothes and it will never come out... It will be on your hands for the next couple of weeks... People will think you have a horrible skin disease... :-( If you clamp it, sometimes it will bubble up in the glued joint and leave a little play in it due to it's softness... And it won't reverse if you ever have to take apart that repair later (where a little moisture or steam will allow other glues to soften)...thanks john !
ribbon spring gluing in place as i attempt to type this with sticky gorilla gluie digits!
beeswax! i got some of that
now, if i can figure out how to put the puzzle back together .. that i think is the hard part
Use the standard PVA woodworker's glue... A little wet wipe, and the stain is gone...
Steve K
hi steve
thanks for the warning !
i've used it before and know to use very little .
(barely a squirt )
when it foams a little bit i take the corner of a wet rag and
wipe it and get very little if any is left on my fingers, and none on my clothes
or anywhere where it isn't supposed to be. to be honest
the last time i used gorilla glue, i used it to repair this same flat metal
spring, and the wood piece came off easily so i could pull the spring broken metal out
and slide this in and glue the wood back on top. ( probably 10 years ago ! )
i'll probably use wood glue next time the spring breaks,
buying glue every time i need it is for the birds, wood glue seems to last a long time
and this repair seems to happen every few years.
===
peter,
the metal i was wondering if i lubricated is the counterbalance spring
(probably wound flat galvanized zinc )
and the metal casters ( rolling solid metal )
... nothing else that is metal really moves...
my stand resembles yours a little bit, but it is different.
it doesn't have a wheel to move the bed up and down,
instead it has a wooden handle in back and a metal rod to loosen
and a tension clamp to loosen in front to allow the bed to slide freely up and
down the columns. the ribbon counterbalance springs do all of the work
( when they are both working ) ... the column-caps on mine are sort of decorative, not
hip-capped like yours and there are key holes to wind up the springs.
there is no lock for the back caster ( the casters are just metal wheels )
and the hinged bed has a big screw to tilt it up.
i think the person who owned/used the camera and stand before me took
matters in his/her own hands because i have small hinges on the camera that attach it to the bed
and the metal rod in back too. i have a feeling s/he had a ribbon spring/s break
and s/he needed to make sure the bed didn't slide down but locked into place
and the hinges because when tilted ( i have saw toothed focus handle to lift the camera
and a big wood screw to lift the bed ) there is a lame little bead of wood at the front end
of the tilt bed, which doesn't seem like it was enough to keep the camera
from sliding forward off the front of the stand if it was tilted more than just a little bit.
maybe the rod is original because the springs were known to break ? and the hinges because
the camera was known to slide off the front of the stand? not sure, i've never seen
another 8A or stand like this one before so i can't really compare to anything except
ones i see on-line or in the old sketch-ads for the cameras/stands.
when i get everyting back together i'll try to clear a spot so i can take a photograph of it ..
thanks again
john
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