Just be aware that if you use the same type of film in roll version for the sake of economy and bracketing convenience, and then try to equate the results to sheet film, you've not only got a potentially different flare factor, but even worse, a much greater fbf due to the significantly greater antihalation layer density. Not all
densitometers have a small enough aperture to read just the undexposed edges of film, so in these cases, you might need a wholly unexposed frame for reference.
Also sheets usually come from different master rolls, with different base, and perhaphs from different emulsion batches. Also film freshness can be different.Originally Posted by Drew Wiley
This thread is starting resemble any alt print digital negative thread.
Custom curves...
Tin Can
Yes...
Expose enough to get tonal separation in the negative values that relate to darker scene values, and develop enough to get the tonal separation you desire in the rest of the range, keeping in mind the ideal density range of your end use. All the different methods are simply ways of getting to that result.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Hasn't that been stated a few thousand times before? "Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights."
Sure. Even Mortensen's advice to "Expose for the highlights and develop for the shadows" gets you to the same thing.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
The only 'rule' I can remember is overexpose film and underexpose digital.
But don't quote me on that...
Tin Can
...adding that slide film, a bit like digital...The only 'rule' I can remember is overexpose film and underexpose digital.
But don't quote me on that...
Sorry, but those are two VERY different approaches. Only the first one works.Even Mortensen's advice to "Expose for the highlights and develop for the shadows" gets you to the same thing.
If you expect detail in the shadows you MUST expose for it.
If it's not in the latent image it won't be in the final negative. Development has very little effect on shadow detail.
- Leigh
If you believe you can, or you believe you can't... you're right.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks