in photoshop if you have desatured your image to greyscale but keeping the file as an RGB file, then adding a curve is an adjustment layer so the underlying image is not altered. You can just switch the curve on or off to see the pure greyscale or affect with curve. So I don't really see the problem unless you don't have an image editing tool.
Although Bob stated it briefly, it's an important point worth repeating !Originally Posted by bob carnie
In Photoshop we can specify which part of the tonal scale we want to change with each adjustment. We can make the dark values cooler, the middle high values more golden, the whites pure white, etc. We can tailor a specific toning treatment for every different image, according to taste.
Now if those darned OEM inks didn't fade and shift over time, we'd really be in business
Last edited by Ken Lee; 1-Jul-2016 at 14:58.
My preferred method is to change the file to color. Add a curves adjustment layer. Use the various curves to give you the color that you want. Note that it's no problem to make split-tones..... Change the blending mode of the curves adjustment layer to "color", and adjust opacity to taste.
When working with any split tones, using a step wedge file is very helpful.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Given what you're trying to do, I think the several approaches towards split toning are more likely to yield the results that you're looking for than trying to coax ABW into something it just isn't very capable of. I personally use a gradient map layer on top of a black and white image layer. The tone/color can be adjusted in just about any imaginable way, distinguishing between only shadows and highlights or running through a great number of steps and variations. The toning can be adjusted to taste using the opacity slider on the entire layer, or even/also through selective masking.
I'm not sure what your concern is in not wanting to convert to a color version; if it worries you, consider saving an original file as well as an edited version for printing. I usually do this as well; I store the tiff as it has been scanned and never alter it in any way, so I can always go back to the 'original'.
A silver wet print when toned can exhibit change only in the low end , when you start reaching the high values the whole print is a red mess.
so this is why I like hitting different areas with different tonalitys, to give a split toned effect.
Although Bob stated it briefly, it's an important point worth repeating !
In Photoshop we can specify which part of the tonal scale we want to change with each adjustment. We can make the dark values cooler, the middle high values more golden, the whites pure white, etc. We can tailor a specific toning treatment for every different image, according to taste.
Now if those darned OEM inks didn't fade and shift over time, we'd really be in business
You can use QTR to stay with greyscale file and split tone. Allows separate settings for highlight, midtones and shadows.
Thanks, everyone, for the helpful comments! I got the answer I was looking for.
This would be my solution. QTR is an excellent RIP for rendering "B&W" images. It avoids color fringing with which I've had problems in B&W RGB files.
We sell a dedicated "selenium" Piezography inkset at InkjetMall. We will also be releasing the new "pro" inkset that will enable true split-toning of monochrome inks as well as industry-leading dMax and gloss-differential/bronzing control.
best,
Walker
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Walker Blackwell
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