air compressor

[Henry Ambrose]

Serge, I don't mean to hijack your thread but Paul asked if a vacuum would not add a static charge in the same way that a jet of air would. Air compressors typically heat and dry out the air that they produce. Less moisture and higher temps in that air are more likely to produce static than more moist air such as the typical ambient air. Dryer air has a higher potential for carrying a charge. When you add the velocity produced by a typical nozzle you have the friction of the air over the surface to add to the effect.

Vacuums do not dry the air, and the velocity of the airflow is lower. Add in the fact that sucking the dust up and containing it means that it cannot be redeposited on your film holder or film or whatever part you are cleaning so I still think a vacuum is better. Also in general for keeping your film and holders clean, higher humidity is your friend because there will be less stuff floating in the air to begin with.

Now if you want to try something that blows air, try this: <a href="http://www.exair.com/static_eliminator/iaj_page.htm" target= _blank">Exair Static Eliminator<a/> You might get really great results in cleaning your film holders and film.

And for everyone who is happy blowing dust with compressed air - I'm not saying you are wrong or that your results are not good. If it works for you then keep doing it.

[Hans Berkhout]

Bertram Miller gives instructions how to set up an oil-less aircompressor system; in the 1992 may/june issue of Darkroom & Creative Camera Techniques. I don't think that things have changed! Works fine for me. You can contact me directly for details if you wish.

[John Kasaian]

Serge,

I use a mini shop vac with the micro cleaning attachments kit. It works for me & its a lot cheaper than a compressor!

[Ernest Purdum]

Serge, I just did a web search for "diaphragm air compressor" and found lots of information, including brand information and not all of it about diaphragm types. I'm hesitant to make any brand recommendation because it would depend a lot on where you are and what is on sale at the time. A diaphragm type only delivers relatively low pressure, but is clean. There are other oil-free types, though.



The "dial that can adjust the strength of the blast" is on the regulator which can be built in to the compressor or be a separate item, The same is true of an air trap. If you use a tank, you have to drain it regularly to eliminate condensation.



Sometimes surplus stores have these items, usually removed from equipment.

[Ed Richards]

If you use a small shop vac you can replace the filter with a HEPA filter so that any dust that goes it will not come out again. If it also has a way to attach the hose on the outlet, it would be a source of dust free air.

[Gary J. McCutcheon]

I have used a shop vac for years to clean holders. I have the hose with a brush attatchment in a small darkroom with the canister located a few feet away in another room. Exhaust air is expelled away from the clean area. This prevents dust distribution you will get with a compressor. A compressor may be good for cleaning little nicks and crannies, but once the dust is blown out it's good to suck it up. The brush on the shop vac hose is used only for cleaning holders. I always vac the brush off before using it on the holders also as another precaution. I have a small airbrush compressor that works well for blowing things out, but I'm always aware of the dust moving in the room. I do use my airbrush more for cleaning of this nature now more than for airbrushing, which photoshop has eliminated a lot of. Vac the holders, blow other things where air movement and redistributing dust won't matter as much. Fred Picker taught the use of vaccumns for cleaning holders. It does work well.

[Donald Qualls]

While I agree that a vacuum cleaner is better than compressed air (because it traps the dust, instead of simply kicking it into the air to resettle in the least opportune location), if you are interested in a compressor there's a very good one you might consider.

Senco makes a tiny compressor that they sell (through home improvement stores and contractor supply shops) in a kit with a brad nailer or separately, for under $100; it's the size of an airbrush compressor that would sell for twice the price, oilless, has a half gallon accumulator tank and pressure actuated switch, and a built-in regulator good for pressure from about 15 psi to about 120 psi (the lower end is better for blow cleaning, generally). It's also relatively quiet and lightweight; if installed inside a cabinet, it should be a lot quieter than a vacuum cleaner. It will also double very nicely as an airbrush compressor -- though in any of these applications, an external water trap would be highly advisable, and is not included with the compressor.

[mark anderson]

Cambel hausfield (or something like that (sp) if you buy any brand there is a good chance this is who actualy made it. they are all noisy except when brand new so mame a sound insulating box around it or get a long enough hose to place it far away. an extra tank in line will keep the comprsor from cycling as often but is not necisary.

if you are going to use the compressor for other jobs that require large volumes of air i would sugest the new modle put out by porter cable. i am a carpenter by trade and have just got one of these. i apriciate the higher cut off point (150 psi) for operating my nail guns as it cuts down on the cycleing of the compersor.

by all means get a good regualtor and moisture remover.

[Robert C. McColloch]

After running the gamut of processes mentioned, I have settled on a good quality paint brush to thoroghly clean my holders before loading. Seems to work for me. I should have listened to Fred Picker years ago.