Scitex Eversmart Pro Scanner Users

[Ari]

Pali, one more question:
Is there any practical advantage in scanning B&W negs this way?

[SergeyT]

That is interesting Pali
It's been awhile since I touched an Eversmart but if remember correctly for the 8-bit output I either kept the scan in the original ESx color space and later converted into the working (ProPhoto) one in Photoshop or imported the ProPhoto into ES Scan and used it as output profile. I think both worked...
And BTW in New Color the endpoints set to 32;250 work perfectly for Portra (400 and 160VC) and Ektar.

As to scanning B&W in color mode I always do that as naturally scanner sees in color and having the original info in all 3 channels reduces the risk of banding during image data manipulation (editing and profile conversions). When done with editing just lay over a Channel Mixer layer with Gray Scale checked in PS.

[Pali K]

Pali, one more question:
Is there any practical advantage in scanning B&W negs this way?

Ari, I am not sure as I haven't done any comparative BW scans but definitely did about 50+ comparative color negative scans. It is possible that you might get better scans purely because of the AdobeRGB color space vs. sRGB that mine assigns by default. I do invert my BW using ColorPerfect as well because it has a nifty feature to do fine tuning adjustments based on Zones for BW editing mode.

That is interesting Pali
It's been awhile since I touched an Eversmart but if remember correctly for the 8-bit output I either kept the scan in the original ESx color space and later converted into the working (ProPhoto) one in Photoshop or imported the ProPhoto into ES Scan and used it as output profile. I think both worked...
And BTW in New Color the endpoints set to 32;250 work perfectly for Portra (400 and 160VC) and Ektar.

As to scanning B&W in color mode I always do that as naturally scanner sees in color and having the original info in all 3 channels reduces the risk of banding during image data manipulation (editing and profile conversions). When done with editing just lay over a Channel Mixer layer with Gray Scale checked in PS.

Thank you Sergey for the note about NewColor. I played quite a bit with that as well for my Tango and have yet to nail down the perfect settings for Color Perfect. Once I do, I'll post a write up on my workflow for Tango as well. I am not missing much as my Scanmate 11000 gets everything just perfect for Color Negatives. I am turning into such a scanner hoarder

[Pali K]

So I "accidentally" bought an Eversmart Supreme scanner and just got it to work. These Scitex/Creo/Kodak scanners are just unbelievable in what they can do and the 16 BIT output from the Supreme is pure magic. If it weren't for the flare around high contrast scenes, these scanners pretty much match my drum scanners from practical use standpoint.

Here is the same 8x10 Velvia 50 scan from ES Supreme that I posted from Scanmate 11000 and ES Pro earlier.


Link to higher resolution scan.

And the resolution test which seems to be resolving over 5700 DPI.



Pali

[MOW]

If Eversmart Supreme flares a lot there might be just too much dust accumulated on ccd, anti-blooming glass over ccd, mirrors (3), and lens surfaces. My own Supreme was really dirty when I got it and flaring was easy to spot. Cleaning made big difference but it is somewhat tedious process.

P.S. You got very good Supreme when I look your resolution target scan. Mine yields one notch lower result.

[Juergen Cullmann]

I have the same problem with flare. How can I clean all mentioned parts in my Supreme. Is there a manuel or guidance? My Supreme has a notch lower resolution too.

[Pali K]

Thank you MOW and Juergen. I have cleaned the optics on my ES PRO before but haven't attempted it on the Supreme just yet. When I do, I will be sure to take pictures and post the process for everyone else. There is an ES Pro Optics cleaning guide available at the following link that walks through the basic process but keep in mind that the supreme has some additional cooling parts that I don't know if and how they impact this process.

http://www.fredturro.com/clients/834...leaningPro.pdf

Pali

[MOW]

Cleaning Supreme is not much different than Pro. It is more complex system so a bit more time consuming to clean. You got to move carrier on middle to get screws opened on the cover of the carrier. There are 4 screws and you need to do this moving of carrier twice since you can't open all the screws at once (they are too separate to get opened from glass handle at once).

Cleaning of front mirror is similar as in Pro. Then there is a moving mirror which is not really getting dirty as it is upside down (I never removed this mirror, too complicated. I just cleaned while it was in place). Below back mirror is ccd anti-blooming glass that is removed by just pulling it out from the small handle it has. And then you can remove back mirror by opening the spring (similar as in front mirror) and taking it out (this is a bit more difficult than front mirror and small risk to damaging it if clumsy).

Then you got access to to clean ccd head. I used long q-tips for cleaning it and flashlight.

So light path is following: light goes first to front mirror, then it goes through lens and to back mirror when it is reflected to moving mirror where it continues through anti-blooming glass to ccd.

You also should check fans in CCD head. There are 3 fans on it and they all need to work well as Peltier element is hot on other side. I heard whole CCD head can go broken if these fans fail...

[Pali K]

So cleaning the Supreme turned out to be a fairly simple process since I already had experience with the Pro. I also didn't take any pictures because it's exactly the same as the document I linked to earlier. I only cleaned the mirrors and used air spray on the lens and this is what I get now. The flare is almost gone and the resolution has improved as well. Cleaning the CCD is more involved and very well protected from dust on the Supreme so I decided to skip this step and I am convinced it wouldn't have helped much.



FYI, this is a DT scan with no color profile and sharpness applied during or post scan.

Pali

[SURF]

Cleaning the CCD is more involved and very well protected from dust on the Supreme so I decided to skip this step and I am convinced it wouldn't have helped much.

It depends... CCD is cooled and condensate. On mine it was very dirty. From experience cleaning CCD on Eversmarts makes the most difference.

And this pic demonstrate what I don't like in Eversmarts. Look at number 4: 11 pixels vertical shift! It shreds the image IMO. (That's from your tests above.)