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Thread: DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

  1. #1

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    DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

    So I scrapped my old hobo- version of 20x24 (saved back and bellows, of course) and rebuilt it, after few trials.

    Your basic plywood, aluminum, cabinet hardware, stain, some nuts and bolts.

    20x24 v2.5 by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr

    20x24 v2.5 by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr

    Now i am trying to figure out decent way to control focusing and back tilt movement

    Any good links on rack/pinion style control? Or anyone can spare parts?

  2. #2

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    Re: DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

    Congratulations! Looks like mahogany. Also notable is the clever use of what seems to be drawer or tablet rails.
    But maybe the front frame should be held by some triangulated structure (diagonal braces); as it is, it must be quite susceptible to swing front-back. Just a suggestion.

  3. #3
    Peter De Smidt's Avatar
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    Re: DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

    "Why can't we all just get along?" President Dale, Mars Attacks

  4. #4

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    Re: DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter J. De Smidt View Post
    thanks Peter, yeah it would work , i was pondering on Amazon for a slightly different set up. I have tried longer leading shaft

    tests with hack focusing shaft by Sergei Rodionov, on Flickr

    but it turns out they are more of hindrance than help - you never truly get past about 10 inches, specially if its more than few rotations per inch. Plus original friction mounting didn't help - it was touch to move front standard..
    But now that i have decent sliding system it doesn't need to be as pushy - may be all i need is just another T-nut to match thread i already have laying around. Hmm... That would certainly work for focusing. Rear tilts seems to be more tricky b/c mount should be few inches off axis (judging by old studio 8x10 i have laying around - i am almost tempted to just steal hardware from it ..)

  5. #5

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    Re: DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

    Quote Originally Posted by Bernard_L View Post
    Congratulations! Looks like mahogany. Also notable is the clever use of what seems to be drawer or tablet rails.
    But maybe the front frame should be held by some triangulated structure (diagonal braces); as it is, it must be quite susceptible to swing front-back. Just a suggestion.
    Hm, thanks. These are actually heaviest cabinet rails i could have find I tested it yesterday with heaviest lens i got - 36inch Cooke, it didn't seem to go funny much, but it could be b/c my bellows just didn't go as far ( i do have plans to add intermediate frame to allow for more than 37" extension - whole thing can extend to about 48-52" as far as hardware
    But i get what you saying - i was thinking about making extra layer on the bottom to make center to be more sturdy anyway - adding extra extendable rails under the base, might be an idea there. Got to think on prototype..

    For a moment though - there is always Alex T. solution with Bogen's extendable support for heavy lenses

  6. #6

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    Re: DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

    Another concept i am toying with is to allow camera to be foldable. I started from there, but i couldn't source good hardware in nearby stores (except for hinges of course) to allow camera to be unfolded and staying firm in place. So for now rear standard doesn't fold. Which kind of sucks, b/c whole camera is not super heave and i would love to get it back in the field to shoot outdoors (as i did with original version)

  7. #7

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    Re: DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

    Thinking about my sliding-box, baseboard style camera I decided that a simple screwed rod would be slow to use, heavy and difficult to fold up. On the table-vice there is a sprung half-nut for sliding the movable jaw prior to tightening it with the handle - did anyone ever try a half-nut for the last adjustments on a friction-fit sliding lens-standard or back?

    The device I am describing as a 'half-nut' is a threaded half-cylinder female portion which can be lifted off the threaded rod (by means of a small lever, working against a spring) to allow coarse manual adjustment by sliding, prior to letting the half-nut spring back on to the rod for final adjustment. Under the half-nut location would be an un-threaded half-cylinder bearing to support the spring force of the half-nut.

  8. #8

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    Re: DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

    That's acme thread

  9. #9

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    Re: DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

    When I made my 8 x 20, I put a rack and pinion on the front assembly for focusing, but found out that it's was too difficult reaching around the back frame to focus it that way. The back rail also slides forward and backward and I found that focusing is pretty easy just sliding it with your fingers. I have a screw in the side of it that I just tighten up to lock it in place.

    Also, mine doesn't fold up, it comes apart in pieces.

    Hope this helps.

    Dan
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 8 x 20 camera.jpg  

  10. #10

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    Re: DIY: 20x24 build: re-iteration

    You'd have to get help from someone who knows something (not me) but it seems like this would be perfect for this job:
    http://www.nookindustries.com/Produc...01/4%22-3%20RA
    1/4" rod, 3 turns per inch, quadruple helix, like in a focus mount.

    That would move fast, and with precision.

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