This is all done with a dark cloth over the camera I assume? Can you perform critical focus on its surface? Have acclimated over the years to upside down images so not sure that is always a added benefit at least to myself. I find the inverted image easier to manage compositionally. Practice I guess makes perfect over time.Originally Posted by Steven Tribe
Last edited by Michael Kadillak; 26-May-2017 at 15:39. Reason: Augmented
Michael , Steven,
Of course, it isn't a thing for mandatory using.
Just I tried to make something similar a viewing prism and it's well working with a dark cloth during some test.
I didn't try to use it while cold winter yet...
Yes, I thought about the combination viewing mirror and GG but all ideas didn't suit me because it must be most easy for using with no any additional complications.
ULF has demanded a lot of attention with no new complications.
As the result I have got funny option which may be realised with other formats). Up to you...
Thank you for your attention!
Whoops, I had a problem with my ixus which is now solved.
The strap is several layers of tough leather which is cut and sewn as shown.
Obviously, the two brass fitments have to be removed (Probably a good idea to check the screws still are OK - especialy iron screws are doubtful when they have been in mahogany for a century!).
Here is my (homebuilt frankensteinish) 8x20 constructed from 2 Kodak 2D's and my 1200mm Nikkor Tele lens. The folding/removable rails are supported at the ends by a long strut which incorporates the 2D tripod block. There is also a provision to attach a monopod/2nd tripod to the front of the strut. The paler wood rail in-between the camera back and the removable rail was built to give additional focal length. I can accommodate about 36" of back focus. The 1200mm Nikkor Tele will cover the 8x20 format, the 600mm and 800mm versions do not. I can't imagine using longer FL lenses.
This is my 16x20"
I started it a few years ago, shot a test negative last year on the first film holder, but haven't finished all of them and all three backs (8x20" done, 12x16" and 16x20" still need some adjusts)
For reference, mounted on the camera is a 360mm Symmar in a Compound #4
My stuff for sale is here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/r7owuacla...Ac74wBbEIUWrUa
Nice job. 16x20 is a nice size.
More photos, please. Very clean design.
What is the purpose of the two top "locking" tabs inside the rear standard? I have similar on my continental reise cameras (a bit more petit, though!), but they fit inside the front standard frame.
In the beginning and thought that with the camera back and bed parallel when closed, the camera itself would balance better when set on the ground, but the hinges won't allow for that. Now I believe is only purpose is to keep the latch working.
The front frame is a Toyo frame, just because I had a Toyo junk camera here.
The rear standard sits on two small blocks, there are thumb screw underneath that allow for 4 inches of moviment and a little swing.
You can see an additional set of tracks up front on the bed, so the rear standard can move close to the front of the camera (I cut those thinking of making circle images with 14cm Protar f/18 on 16x20", haven't got that far yet).
There are a few more on my blog: https://refotografia.wordpress.com/tag/ulf/
It is all in portuguese, but there is a link on the right panel to translate it.
My stuff for sale is here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/r7owuacla...Ac74wBbEIUWrUa
Saw your blog; impressive job making the bellows!
What material did you use?
That makes the task of building a camera seem much less intimidating. I think my next ulf.camera will need to DIY.
Awesome work
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