Color Darkroom Set Up and Fujimoto CP-51

[Baked]

Bob,

Once again thank you for your help. However, I still have some questions. I still don't understand if I only have to buy developer and bleach/fix, or do I also have to buy developer replenisher and bleach/fix replenisher? And one of the photography professors was asking how long the chemicals will last inside the machine once they're put in the baths? Again, only four people will be printing at a time. They will most likely only be using 11x14" paper. If the chemical is inside the machine and is not being used, will it go bad? I'm trying to understand how to best use the chemicals to get the most from it. So if the chemicals will only last two days once loaded, then should the students print as much as possible within the two days? Or will it last longer?

Another question I have is about disposing of the chemicals. Does the developer get dumped down the drain? And I assume the bleach/fix is put in containers for waste disposal. But can I add the bleach/fix with silver fix used for B&W printing? Or is it a bad idea to mix the two different fixer types. It's not a problem to get separate waste containers from the university.

[EdSawyer]

Replenisher and regular solutions are the same for ra4. Just go with the kodak ra/rt stuff. There may be developer starter but that is just really for seasoning a tank for consistency. Chemistry will last at least several days in the machine, more if not exposed to air. Tanks solutions not in the machine will last for months, mixed or not, ideally without air exposure. Best to drain it nightly if you really want to treat things well. Setup and breakdown can be time consuming depending on how clean you want to keep everything.

If not printing larger than 11x14 much, consider sourcing a cp-31. It is smaller and easier to use and clean, and more economical on chemistry, runs on 120v, etc. Save the cp51 for when everyone wants to run big prints.

I dump it all down the drain, usually mixed with some water. The replenishment rate is usually such that it doesn't generate a ton of waste solutions per session.

[RPNugent]

I have attached a couple things to hopefully help out.

The chemistry has a fairly decent shelf life once mixed, but is increased with the floating lid if you can get one or possibly find it if someone got it before. I think I have gone as long as a month to use a 10 liter batch and been OK, but usually use it up faster than that. When I run my CP51 I plan on using it every day for several hours to make sure I get it used before I have to worry about it going bad. Every night I pull the racks from inside the machine and wash them off thoroughly and set them aside outside the machine. I put the floating lid on the chemistry and leave it in the machine rather than draining it, though that is an option. Keep in mind that color processing is in complete darkness until the paper has been fed into the machine and the lid closed. That means if this is in a shared darkroom it's one person at a time using the entire darkroom. Not sure how that will impact you in a multiuser setting.

The others show the actual chemistry except developer which I don't have in house at the moment so included the Adorama link since they ship it.

http://www.adorama.com/KKRADRRT.html...ate.cj.3865412

[RPNugent]

As usual I forgot to answer part of your question.

Like Ed I dump the chemistry down the drain based on the Kodak handling pamphlet which says it is safe for municipal sewer systems. The amount going down the drain with each sheet processed is in milliliter amounts so not huge.

You buy the three part developer kit, developer starter and two part bleach/fix replenisher which makes both the tank BF and provides the replenisher. If you were using it constantly the starter only gets used to "season" the first batch of developer and would not be in the mix again until you completely dump everything and start over from fresh.

Always fill the bleach/fix compartment first and the make sure there has been no splash into the developer section. It takes very little BF to ruin a developer run so avoid contamination at all cost.

Here are the other links you need to know exactly what to order.

http://www.adorama.com/KKRABFR10L.html

http://www.adorama.com/KKRADS.html

[Drew Wiley]

I'd agree that Kodak RA/RT is the most reliable, though Freestyle in LA has a chemically identical Arista substitute kit, which I have tested and have no hesitation
recommending. Don't worry about the paper. Fuji cut-sheet papers work superbly with this chemistry and print well with ordinary optical colorheads. Most of their roll papers do too. But I personally don't like mixing more chem than I need to a given project.

[Baked]

Hi Bob,


Thanks for the links. However, I'm still confused about the chemicals. In the two links you provided I see a Bleach/Replenisher and a Developer Starter. I do not see a link to the three part developer kit you mentioned. is is this one:

http://www.adorama.com/KKRADRRT.html

I get confused by the "replenisher" because I don't have a clear understanding of what the replenisher is and does. Is it just another name for developer?

Many thanks,

Doug

[Drew Wiley]

You can use just starter solutions for limited sessions, provided you don't run more paper through than the overall solution volume can handle, or over enough time
to develop chemical oxidation. Then you have to clean your machine, remix chem, and start over. What a replenisher does is allow you to "top off" the activity of
your solutions, much like partially recharging your cell phone battery on a regular basis and not letting it go dead. Of course, you need to monitor this or have a
program in the machine which does it automatically and feeds in the replensihers from separate reservoirs.

[Baked]

Ed,

Thanks yet again for sharing your knowledge about this. Sorry for the slow response, the semester ended and I was taking a break and spending time with my family.

By the way, I found the manual for the processor and I'm going to scan each page and create a pdf. If anyone ever wants a copy of the pdf please let me know and I'll send it to you.

[Baked]

Ed, Bob, Drew:

Do any of you have specific recommendations for containers? I've been looking at 10 liter containers to mix and hold the chemistry in once I drain it from the machine. It's the link below, from U.S. Plastics. Please let me know if there are ones you recommend for the chemistry and for the drain overflow tank.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...zWYaAsLh8P8HAQ

[Drew Wiley]

Most poly plastics should do fine if the lids fit tightly. I wouldn't use the cheap thin kind typically sold in Photo stores.