How to measure and time long exposures at dusk or dawn.

[Corran]

Why is an app "silly", yet "online" is okay?

Because I don't want to be messing with my phone while trying to enjoy photography. I oftentimes leave my phone in the car, unless I'm (sigh) "on-call" for work.

I don't much care for any phone app.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Where I struggle now is how to compensate for the changing light during dusk and dawn. How do you handle this? Also passing clouds are not that easy to handle. Do you have any rules of thumb how to compensate?

No rules of thumb other than to not worry about it too much. Just make sure your exposure has taken into consideration factors such as reciprocity, filters, bellows extension, etc. You should have an image that you can work with. Personally, I don't use any apps in the field. I've done it so many times, with the same films, for many years, it's in me head. Get out there and just do it!

[Steve Sherman]

Why is an app "silly", yet "online" is okay?

I wouldn't use an app for reciprocity but I do use the phone to record the camera as it relates to the scene. I use the voice recorder to keep specific notes about exposure, development, scene contrast and then send the audio file along with a still pix or even a video to File Maker Pro program you can design specifically to your needs. The notes about the shot are on my home computer before I even return home.
Just turn the ringer off on your phone if in the Zone !

[Lachlan 717]

What is this phobia/dislike of smart phone applications?

They are simply a different representation of information in (IMO) a bloody handy format.

The creator of the reciprocity tool put many, many hours into collecti and collating reciprocity information and then spent many more creating an easy-to-use interface.

Bryan's comment about not wanting to mess with his phone whilst trying to make photographs just seems priggish; first, smart devices (apps are not always on phones) seems no less tedious or fiddly than looking through hand written notes. Second, put your phone on aeroplane mode. It will still work with the apps without receiving calls.

Steve, I can understand if you wrote "I don't use an app", but I certainly think "I wouldn't use an app" a strange philosophy. If you read the thread about the reciprocity app by Boizo, you'll get to understand the vast amount of work he put into its creation. Can you please explain this view further?

[Andrew O'Neill]

I wouldn't use an app, either... I'm quite happy using the data that I generated myself. And like I said, it's all in my head after using it for years. If other people want to use an app, that's their business and it doesn't bother me in the least. There certainly are some pretty cool apps out there! To each his own!

[Corran]

Lachlan, what is the big deal? Are you personally insulted that I don't use the Reciprocity Timer? Get over it. Your accusation of priggishness is really unnecessary. I didn't imply at all that you, or anyone, shouldn't use an app, just that I don't care to.

Look, I like my smartphone. Having access to the internet 24/7 is pretty cool. I listen to podcasts with it as well as mp3s (I can still remember buying my first mp3 player with 16 megabytes of storage). It's a great waster of time. But I don't really care to bother with my phone while I am enjoying my alone time in the woods, or whatever. I tried some corrections for my usual film and found what works for me, and then memorized it. Done. To be honest I did have a cheat-sheet of basic values for a while in a memo on my phone that I referred to once or twice.

It's all for the best that I don't care to mess with most apps as my preferred phone for simplicity and UI is a Windows phone, which the Reciprocity Timer doesn't support anyway.

[StoneNYC]

Personally, when doing dusk and dawn photos, we are sometimes talking an hour or two exposure not just 10 minutes.

In this case, with the changing light what I do is meter from time to time and see if the light has changed, if it has I either adjust the time I shoot for, or adjust the aperture to compensate for the change in light. Depends on the circumstance.

Knowing your film and experience really are the key however.

I also use Acros100 for sure whenever possible as its with the extra time, as I've said before it can be the difference between taking 3-5 exposures and taking only 1 in a single day because the other films that take longer to expose mean that by the time the first one is finally exposed, the light is GONE, but with Acros100's reciprocity characteristics (schwarzschild) you can take more shots.

"Bracketing" is a joke I think? You don't bracket in these kinds of long exposures with changing light unless you set up 3 cameras and fire them simultaneously and then stop them at different times. Lol.

When shooting 8x10 long exposures, I really can't afford to have a bad sheet so I only use Acros100.

[dave_whatever]

What is this phobia/dislike of smart phone applications?

They are simply a different representation of information in (IMO) a bloody handy format.

.....that is entirely battery dependant, and almost impossible to use when wearing gloves. Quick show of hand anyone who's ever had their phone die unexpectedly, especially towards the end of the day? I'm guessing thats most of you.

[Doremus Scudder]

Personally, when doing dusk and dawn photos, we are sometimes talking an hour or two exposure not just 10 minutes.

In this case, with the changing light what I do is meter from time to time and see if the light has changed, if it has I either adjust the time I shoot for, or adjust the aperture to compensate for the change in light. Depends on the circumstance.

Knowing your film and experience really are the key however. ...

"Bracketing" is a joke I think. You don't bracket in these kinds of long exposures with changing light unless you set up 3 cameras and fire them simultaneously and then stop them at different times. ...

Ding, ding, ding!!! We have a winner. If the time allows, re-meter and adjust. Err on the side of overexposure for negative materials. It's really hard to overexpose to the point of not being able to print a negative once you reach reciprocity failure. Of course, there's a build up of contrast, but you take care of that by reducing development.

Best,

Doremus

[Steve Sherman]

Steve, I can understand if you wrote "I don't use an app", but I certainly think "I wouldn't use an app" a strange philosophy. If you read the thread about the reciprocity app by Boizo, you'll get to understand the vast amount of work he put into its creation. Can you please explain this view further?

First, let me state, by in large the contributors on these forums are seasoned and knowledgeable LF photogs whose opinions I value, those who are not usually distinguish themselves very soon into their contributions.

As you point out Lachlan a poor choice of words, I do use apps but in the case of Reciprocity conversions, I have seen over the years photogs fumbling thru their backpack for their R. Chart and then converting to the meter and then onto the lens adjustments. To my way of reasoning, the ONLY time I need the chart is when the meter is in my hand, a simple 90 degree turn of the meter and I know what my exposure will be base on the R. chart I use.

Also, before a Flame War begins as to my corrected times, when in a situation where the EV value falls below 5; I have to cut the corrected Reciprocity time by 30 %. These numbers have worked for me for years and scores if not hundreds of long high contrast exposures, as I think about I am in a reciprocity situation more than I am not.

My appreciation for the smart phone grows every time my kids come home. Miss you Steve Jobs !!