front rise

[John Fass]

sorry if this question has been answered elsewhere. After extensive search i can't find the answer. I shoot architecture on a sinar norma with wobbly standards and badly need to upgrade. Can anyone tell me the front rise I can get out of a shen hao fitted with 65mm lens? (the 90 seems to be no problem at 38mm of rise?) The alternative seems to go all the way up to an ebony 45s which i'd prefer to avoid as i'm a firm believer in the photographer rather than the equipment. Thanks in advance. This forum must be one of the best on the net. So much knowledge and experience here. On a different topic how long can i safely keep exposed 5X4 sheets before processing. I've got a job coming up in Japan (i live in Italy) and am concerned about detailed processing instructions in sign language as my japanese is non-existent!

[Joseph Dickerson]

John,

I used a She Hao for a bit last summer and with the 65mm Grandagon the front standard is actually inside the camera body so almost no front rise is possible.

With my 75mm and the bag bellows this was not an issue.

Joe D.

[Michael S. Briggs]

If architecture is your main interest, you might want to get a field camera that is more monorail like than wooden folders. I use a Linhof Technikardan; Arca-Swiss cameras are also popular. These cameras will be easier to use with short focal length lenses and more precise than most wooden folders.

I've kept exposed B+W film for many months before developing it. It is best to avoid heat -- refrigeration is good if you can avoid condensation on the film. I store the film in a sealed container with some dessicant.

[Ted Harris]

John,

There are other options besides the Shen Hoa that don't require you to go to an Ebony. The one that comes most readily to mind is the Walker. Take a look at the specs for both the Titan SF and the Titan XL wide angle camera. I think ou will find you have lots of rise with eiter body and the 65mm ;ens although I can't speak from experience since the 75 is the shortest lens I use. Also look at the Canham but I suspect the Walker XL will be what you are looking for and it is rock solid and rugged (wash it in the shower if you like). You can see the specs and the entire line at Mike Walker's website http://www.walkercameras.com/ if you hav any more questions call Mike Walker direct. Mike, like Keith Canham and dick Phillips, is one of the geniuses and true gentlemen of the LF camera construction business. He knows his stuff and is always happy to chat with a photographer.

[Donald Hutton]

John

Just a consideration. but the image circle of the all the 65mm lenses in current production is either 169 or 170mm - which only allows just over 10mm of front rise at best, so there may be a lot of other options in cameras which can do this in between your Sinar Norma and an Ebony 45s. If you are not keen to spend a whole lot of money and shoot architecture, I'd definitely suggest that you look around for a Sinar F2 second hand - it's a top line piece of gear for a steal on the second hand market (under $1000). Comparable cameras such as the fashionable Arca Swiss F-lines go for much more.

[John Fass]

thanks for your advice everyone. The 75mm with bag bellows will be fine I think on the Shen Hao, i only use the 65mm with a 6X7 back where the image circle limitation is less of an issue. The Titans look great, the SF has a massive 86mm up and down on the front standard but I cannot tell whether it needs the so called 'wide angle setup' by continually titling the lens panel to achieve this. The XL also looks great and very rugged as pointed out but can only take a lens up to 180mm which could be a seriously limiting factor. The Sinar F2 looks rigid but far too large for the field and I swapped an arca swiss F-line for the norma i use now as the spring on the back was absurdly stiff resulting in camera shake and shift everytime a darkslide was inserted. I lost so many exposures this way Arca Swiss is a swear word in my studio! I love the Technikardan but it's way out of my budget at the moment. Thank you again for the advice. I wonder if colour transparencies would survive as well exposed in the box???