Moving them super close will also maximize their softness.
Moving them super close will also maximize their softness.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
every time you roughly half distance from light source to subject you gaining one stop of light. So if it was 1 meter way - moving it in about 0.5m will get you one more stop. Then moving it 0.25m will get you another & etc..
Also it will increase transition surface and make highlights smoother (and bigger)
Some meters will take account of successive pops. My Minolta Flash Meter 3 does so. The exposure based on what it said worked fine.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
I ended up buying a Polaris flash meter, which will also calculate multiple flashes. I've played with the meter, strobe and a CFT as fill light with 35mm and 120, but next weekend I ought to try out a real camera with these lights. Fun!
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig."
seezee at Mercury Photo Bureau
seezee on Flickr
seezee's day-job at Messenger Web Design
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig."
seezee at Mercury Photo Bureau
seezee on Flickr
seezee's day-job at Messenger Web Design
I have done it both ways... pros and cons to each.
Camera method:
+ get to see the actual shot on the screen, check histogram, and you get digital outtakes of your shot
+ most people have one, don't have to buy a separate flash meter
- have to figure out a way for both the digital and LF camera to trip the flashes/strobes
- digital camera may not have the same range in ISO, aperture, focal length, as a LF camera
- digital camera has greater DoF at same aperture setting as a LF camera, so the picture isn't a perfect representation
- film and digital ISO sensitivities are _supposed_ to be the same, but may vary due to in-camera processing, film types, etc.
Light meter method:
+ faster, don't have to pick up a separate camera to test the lighting
+ less gear to bring with you
- takes some skill to use a meter accurately (light meter readings will vary depending on where you place the meter, etc)
- most people have to buy one
- can't get a live preview of the image, no digital outtakes are created
-Adam
Peter showed how close he puts a beauty dish, way closer than I ever tried. I immediately shot the edge of the dish, but it is easily removed even with a wet print.
My X-Ray series just posted had the beauty dish very close, with a gold reflector and a hair light, mit grid hanging right above out of camera view.
I need to keep practicing with still objects.
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