Quick releases for LF cameras

[Tin Can]

Randy, I already did that with my last post. I let my web site go last month because I don't need the continued expense. But if I still had it, I would continue to link my images in that manner because it gives me more control over the images and allows me to update them, if necessary. So, the images are not lost. They're re-posted using the forum system!

Great. I thought perhaps you had a bottom view as I am 'hacking' similar for my delicate Korona 7X17.

I have a couple vanity sites and they are a PITA.

And very glad you used the forum system!

[William Whitaker]

Glad you're pleased. I, however, remain non-conformist.
If you still need photos, Randy, send me a PM or email specifying what you wish to see.

[Jim Noel]

I gave up on the Manfroto QR plates very early because of their small size and I felt the mountings were insecure. I certainly would never mount anything larger than small 4x5 field camera on one.
I have two Horseman QR's. One is mounted on the tripod for 8x10 and smaller and the other on the tripod for the 7x17. I never have to worry about camera security, even if I neglect to lock the clamp. The spring loaded buttons front and rear prevent the camera from moving. Both are mounted to the tripod with a 3/8" bolt. It is a good feeling when you can carry a 7x17 over the shoulder without worry.

[William Whitaker]

For Randy and anyone else who's interested, here are some quick and dirty shots of the support board for my 12x20.



The first photo shows the rails underneath the board. These are spaced so that the top of my Ries Photoplane head fits snugly between them. This aligns the board and keeps it from twisting.

The second photo shows the end cross section and the outer rails which embrace the bed of the camera so, again, it doesn't twist. Third photo shows the top with two turned brass 1/4-20 bushings. There are two because I thought originally that I might want some longitudinal adjustment of the camera assembly atop the tripod. But that turned out not to be the case and only one bushing is needed. It places the camera at the approximate balance point. The last photo shows the 1/4-20 camera screw peeking up through the board. The dimensions are such that when the rear of the bed is flush with the rear edge of the board, the screw lines up with the bushing in the camera, allowing the screw to be secured with no fuss, no muss.

In practice it's really very simple. The tripod is set up first, then the board attached and secured. The camera (folded) is then set on the board between the upper rails and slid carefully so that the rear edges align. Then the 1/4-20 screw is secured and the front extension lowered to fit between the upper rails.

As I said earlier it's not a quick release, but a "quicker release" as it speeds up mounting the camera and makes the whole process more secure as I don't have to balance an unwieldy 12x20 camera on my pinky finger (in the wind, rain, what-have-you.)

It is very camera-specific and, while some cameras would benefit from a similar treatment. probably not all would work as well. Simply having a visual or tactile alignment reference would be almost as helpful. When I had a Kodak Master (8x10) I found that the fore/aft grooves in the bed were very helpful in making sure the camera was mounted straight and not twisted

[Tin Can]

Very helpful Will.

I will adapt your ideas to a Majestic tripod and head with the big 6x7 plate for my 7x17 and 7x11, both really need more than factory help.


Thank you!

[Willie]

Linhof makes a quick release that is solid, locks tight and does the job?

[Jerry Bodine]

Linhof makes a quick release that is solid, locks tight and does the job?

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search...op+Nav-Search=

[Daniel Stone]

I posted this on another thread earlier this year, but thought it might be pertinent to this current topic at-hand:

Colin,

Here's an alternative option for a quick release system. It is NOT cheap price-wise, but neither is a broken camera on the ground !

http://store.zacuto.com/tripod-adapter-plate/

http://store.zacuto.com/qr-dovetail/

[Oren Grad]

For Randy and anyone else who's interested, here are some quick and dirty shots of the support board for my 12x20.



The first photo shows the rails underneath the board. These are spaced so that the top of my Ries Photoplane head fits snugly between them. This aligns the board and keeps it from twisting.

The second photo shows the end cross section and the outer rails which embrace the bed of the camera so, again, it doesn't twist. Third photo shows the top with two turned brass 1/4-20 bushings. There are two because I thought originally that I might want some longitudinal adjustment of the camera assembly atop the tripod. But that turned out not to be the case and only one bushing is needed. It places the camera at the approximate balance point. The last photo shows the 1/4-20 camera screw peeking up through the board. The dimensions are such that when the rear of the bed is flush with the rear edge of the board, the screw lines up with the bushing in the camera, allowing the screw to be secured with no fuss, no muss.

In practice it's really very simple. The tripod is set up first, then the board attached and secured. The camera (folded) is then set on the board between the upper rails and slid carefully so that the rear edges align. Then the 1/4-20 screw is secured and the front extension lowered to fit between the upper rails.

As I said earlier it's not a quick release, but a "quicker release" as it speeds up mounting the camera and makes the whole process more secure as I don't have to balance an unwieldy 12x20 camera on my pinky finger (in the wind, rain, what-have-you.)

It is very camera-specific and, while some cameras would benefit from a similar treatment. probably not all would work as well. Simply having a visual or tactile alignment reference would be almost as helpful. When I had a Kodak Master (8x10) I found that the fore/aft grooves in the bed were very helpful in making sure the camera was mounted straight and not twisted

Will -

As luck would have it, I've been wrestling (literally!) with a 12x20 F&S for the first time these past couple of weeks. Mounting it straight to the A-250 head ends up putting all the weight on a very small bearing surface on the camera side, and as you know, even with the large platform on the Ries head and the spring-loaded screw, getting the camera on to the tripod safely is quite the production. So I've been starting to think about possible mounting plates, and yours gives me some new ideas.

How much does your support board weigh?

[William Whitaker]

Will -

As luck would have it, I've been wrestling (literally!) with a 12x20 F&S for the first time these past couple of weeks. Mounting it straight to the A-250 head ends up putting all the weight on a very small bearing surface on the camera side, and as you know, even with the large platform on the Ries head and the spring-loaded screw, getting the camera on to the tripod safely is quite the production. So I've been starting to think about possible mounting plates, and yours gives me some new ideas.

How much does your support board weigh?

I know it well, Oren! The support board is a solid piece of mahogany because that's what I had at the time. It could just as well (or better) be made from 3/4" plywood. It's approximately 12x16 inches and the weight of the hardware is negligible. I packed it away again, but I'd guess the weight is 1 pound or less. Certainly a very tiny fraction of the weight of the 12x20 kit!