Beginner question: can I combine any lens with any shutter?
Thinking about buying a lens that comes with a Prontor Shutter, yet I'd like to use it with a Compur shutter.
Thanks for your help
Beginner question: can I combine any lens with any shutter?
Thinking about buying a lens that comes with a Prontor Shutter, yet I'd like to use it with a Compur shutter.
Thanks for your help
No. Each shutter has it's limitations. My suggestion is that if the details are that important, find the features of a shutter that you need, then find one that has a suitable lens in it... or vice versa. Find a lens you want, then one mounted in a shutter that meets your needs.
If you don't really have any specific needs, just get a lens and go use it. To make photos, you don't even need a shutter. If you have a stable camera on tripod, a lens cap will suffice.
Chris
Some combinations switch easily, some don't. Do some research with the exact lens/shutter specs. Your question is too generic to give you a competent answer.
Best,
Michael
What's the lens. I use Prontor shutters they usually work well.
Ian
It does depend on the lens and shutter size, as well as what threads are around the cells and in the shutter. However as an example I have a Prontor shutter that has a Pullin 100mm f2.8 lens and the cells from it easily fit in to my Compur 1 sized shutters.
Needless to say the exact aperture scales wouldn't marry up, so working it out takes a little time. However I have an older shutter (exact brand unknown), which is comparable in size to a Compur/Compound 3 shutter however the cells from it are just too wee to fit into a Compound/Compur 3 shutter.
Most Prontor shutters conform to the Compur standard. The standard specifies tube length and diameter and threading of the front and rear tubes. Some #2 and #3 Compur and Copal shutters deviate from the standard but nearly all #00, #0 and #1 Compur, Copal, Prontor, Seiko and Seikosha shutters conform.
Why do you want to reshutter a lens you don't have yet? What won't the Prontor shutter do that a Compur will? I ask because I've put lenses in Prontor Press shutters. What I give up with a Press shutter is speeds faster than 1/125, and I can usually live with that. But then, I don't use film faster than ISO 100.
As has already been mentioned, to do the swap you'll need a Compur the same size as the Prontor and unless you're lucky you'll have to make an aperture scale for the Compur.
This is not a DIY project. There is more to it than just mating threads and making an aperture scale. Cell spacing is critical. You'll need to send it to a professional concern to have the lens re-mounted. And that's going to get expensive in a hurry. My best guess is that you would be better off getting a lens already in the shutter you desire. Then, too, I don't understand why a Prontor shutter is not satisfactory for your needs.
Will, I don't know why people, including you, are so worried about cell spacing. Standard Compur, Copal, Prontor, Seiko and Seikosha #00, #0 and #1 shutters conform well to their respective standards. Swapping cells from one #1 (or #00 or #0) to another isn't, in general, a problem. Similarly, swapping cells from a conforming barrel (Schneider lenses delivered in barrel came in barrels that corresponded to shutters) also isn't, in general, a problem. I've done this with cells that fit #00, #0 and #1 shutters with no problems.
The world being the ornery place it is, there are a few exceptions.
Some cells are shimmed to get the right spacing. The rule is, if there's a shim behind a cell it has to be transferred with the cell.
Copal #1 Press shutters with Tominon lenses in them as were sold for a variety of Polaroid cameras (I think the most common is the CU-5) have conforming threads but non-conforming -- too long -- tube lengths. I once asked my friend Eric Beltrando, who has a ray tracing program, how much of a problem using one of these shutters with a 150/5.6 Saphir BX (perfectly ordinary 150/5.6 plasmat type) would be. He did the calculations, reported that plasmats' performance isn't very sensitive to cell spacing and that the error was a tiny fraction (< 1% of focal length). He recommended putting the cells in the shutter and not worrying. He also advised not using a Polaroid Copal #1 press shutter with a dagor type lens.
I've never had so have never measured a Prontor #1 press shutter as supplied for the Polaroid MP-3 system, so don't know whether their tube lengths conform to the standard.
And then there are #00 shutters. These wee beasties aren't completely standardized and some cells won't seat properly in a #00 made for another lens. The late Steve Grimes called thie the "shoulder problem" and used to open the tubes up a little at the front so that the cells' shoulders would bottom on the tube in the correct position.
And then there are conforming press shutters. Press shutters' diaphragms are set farther back (closer to the rear tube's end) than are cock and shoot shutters' diaphragms. This can be a problem with lenses whose rear cells go deep in the tube, they can hit the diaphragm. 80/2.8 Planars' rear cells won't go into a #1 press shutter. Koni-Omega 60/5.6's rear cells won't go into a #0 press shutter. And so on. Machining won't help, the only solution is using a cock and shoot shutter.
We read stuff like this:
For the professionals in repair matters who would like to repair successfully by themselves, as well as for all the other service matters we would ask for strict compliance with the following:
* Our ranges Super-Angulon (incl. XL types), Super-Symmar XL, Super-Symmar HM, Apo-Componon and Digitar can be only repaired at Schneider-Kreuznach. To optimize the optical parameter in the best possible way an exact re-adjustment of these lenses after repair is absolutely necessary.
* Complete shutters should be only exchanged by Schneider Kreuznach directly (also here re-adjustment).
http://www.schneiderkreuznach.com/en...pport/service/
Oren, thanks for the link. This is very interesting news for owners of Super Angulons and SA clones. It seems we've been deluding ourselves for years.
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