Open Tubes in Trays, Covered by Solution, OK for Minimal Agitation/Semi-Stand?

[John Layton]

While I've been shuffle-processing in trays for years, I'm thinking I'd like to try tubes to help mitigate the occasional scratch.

I also would like to maintain and/or increase flexibility of using different agitation methods.

What I'm thinking is that I'd like to use open (ABS?) tubes, with one negative inside each, which I'd then roll in open trays in the dark...using enough solutions to completely cover the tubes - which would allow much more flexibility (than just rotating through a shallow bath) in that this would allow for minimal agitation, semi-stand, and perhaps even stand techniques.

Any thoughts to share on this? Thanks!

[Matsushime]

What size negs are you developing? Do you have a budget?

[John Layton]

Mostly 5x7, with some 4x5 and 8x10. As for budget, my thought is that I would purchase and cut to size relatively inexpensive ABS pipe for this purpose, with my only other potential increase in cost due to the slight increase in solution volume. No big deal I think.

[John Layton]

....with Pyrocat HD in glycol as my developer of choice - but also occasional uses of PMK and HC-110.

[Peter Langham]

John,
I used open tubes in trays for a number of years. I think David Kachel wrote about this years ago. I think I used schedule 125 PVC. I works really well. I didn't worry about fully covering the negative with fluid. Normal depth in the tray seemed to work. I haven't done any semi stand or stand developing, but i would consider getting a can (clean paint can) or bucket and having the tubes upright.

[Matsushime]

What about developing them vertical?

I was thinking for example you can get a 5 inch diameter pvc pipe, cut it a foot long. Cap the pipe leaving you with one open side. Put the developer in.

Get a 3-4 inch diameter pipe and cut that a foot long. Put your neg in the 3-4 inch pipe and do a dip/dunk style developing. I'd say any type of developing style/technique is possible...?

I was thinking this could be an improvement because you're able to empty the developer out much easier. Like emptying out a cup of water.

Is this too off base from your original plan?

[mike rosenlof]

I have also used the David Kachel open tubes method for years. Getting close to 20 now. Have never tried stand developing... I would probably be inclined to put caps on the tubes and fill them up for stand techniques. Maybe there are some cylindrical plastic bottles that would work. 1 liter soda bottles maybe for 5x7? I obviously haven't tried, just tossing ideas.

[John Layton]

Two more questions about using open tubes in trays:

Would it make sense to put some nylon screen material into the (homemade abs) tubes prior to inserting film...to allow solutions to flow behind the film? I've noticed that some others have, at least while using Pyro based developers, have had issues with tubes which feature internal ribs - that these ribs can leave unwanted artifacts on the film base. Would screening do the same? Perhaps a bit of photo-flo in the presoak could help here?

Second question might be more complicated: I notice that many folks suggest that for semi-stand and stand development, films should be oriented vertically. This does make some sense, at least when considering an all-vertical vs. an all-horizontal (flat) orientation. But if I place my tubes horizontally, what then is the films true orientation - keeping in mind that the films are rolled? Perhaps, to mitigate the negative effects of by-products possibly sloughing downwards into the "trench" at the bases of the films curvatures, I could, very occasionally and very gently, give the tubes a half-turn - without canceling out the advantages that stand/semi-stand offers?

I could bite the bullet and just get some paint cans for vertical processing - but it would be great if I could work with the tubes horizontally while doing stand and semi-stand processing.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I use BTZS tubes for constant agitation and stand. The tubes are stood up and filled to the brim with very dilute pyrocat-hd. Film is slipped in (in darkness) and the cap is screwed back on. Rolling agitation for 30 seconds, followed by a few revolutions every 20 min. I have done this with 4x5 and 8x10.