NEW55 Monobath Developer? What?

[chrism]

There's a link to the recipe on their blog:

16 ml HC-110 USA concentrate
50 ml household ammonia (ammonium hydroxide, probably 5% solution)
10 ml Ilford Rapid Fixer concentrate
water to make 256 ml

Time to go and buy some ammonia as I have the other two items in the fridge.

Chris

[StoneNYC]

There's a link to the recipe on their blog:

16 ml HC-110 USA concentrate
50 ml household ammonia (ammonium hydroxide, probably 5% solution)
10 ml Ilford Rapid Fixer concentrate
water to make 256 ml

Time to go and buy some ammonia as I have the other two items in the fridge.

Chris

Cool, wonder if Hypam would work just as well, I'm switching to that soon

[chrism]

It probably would, but it might take some experimentation to get the quantity right.

[BetterSense]

I think Hypam is a different pH. Something about hardener.

I want to try developing 4x5 xray negatives in a black plastic bag, loaded in a changing bag, as a "poor man's Polaroid".

[Tin Can]

I think Hypam is a different pH. Something about hardener.

I want to try developing 4x5 xray negatives in a black plastic bag, loaded in a changing bag, as a "poor man's Polaroid".

I have developed X-Ray in ZipLocks and it works real well, but you use a lot of baggies.

[StoneNYC]

I think Hypam is a different pH. Something about hardener.

I want to try developing 4x5 xray negatives in a black plastic bag, loaded in a changing bag, as a "poor man's Polaroid".

Just that Hypam doesn't work with hardners (which I don't use anyway)

[Andrew O'Neill]

I tried monobath developing years ago in Japan, and was quite impressed with the results. By playing around with the ratio between developing agents and fix, I could get different contrasts. I also used a monobath developer for the bleach and redevelopment process for extreme N minus development.

[IanG]

I think Hypam is a different pH. Something about hardener.

I want to try developing 4x5 xray negatives in a black plastic bag, loaded in a changing bag, as a "poor man's Polaroid".

Hypam & Ilford Rapid fixer are very similar, around the same pH 5.2-5.4, the only real difference is Hypam is buffered differently to allow the use of an optional hardener which has to work at a pH of around 4.5.

Ian

[jnantz]

the guy who did all film, paper and chemistry tests for
teh photo lab index ( jerry katz ) used to love mono bath developers
and invented quite a few of them including some that were ultra fine grained.
he told me a story about how he he processed some 16mm film in one of these fine grained ones he concocted
and enlarged a frame to 16x20 and had it on the wall at some sort of gathering ...
AA and others were there commenting on the image, and how he must have been joking
that it was 16mm film because the grain was so small, they insisted it was a LF negative
( until he showed them the film ) ... he also told me that some modern films aren't suited
for monobaths ( this was in about 2000 when i was in touch with him, maybe 2001 )
because the emulsions were full of poly vinyl fillers ... he and i had planned on working on a few projects
together but unfortunately he died about a year after our last conversation ...

[Michael R]

Just that Hypam doesn't work with hardners (which I don't use anyway)

Other way around. See Ian's post. Ilford Hypam and Rapid Fixer operate in the same pH range, and one can be substituted for the other UNLESS hardening is desired, in which case you use Hypam. Hypam is formulated with different buffering so that its pH is properly lowered when the optional hardener is added.