I am reading Veronica Cass' book on film retouching.
Anybody have an idea for a 'glue like' fluid replacement that dries on negatives to allow pencil retouching, similar to discontinued Kodak Retouching Fluid?
I am reading Veronica Cass' book on film retouching.
Anybody have an idea for a 'glue like' fluid replacement that dries on negatives to allow pencil retouching, similar to discontinued Kodak Retouching Fluid?
Tin Can
No, but if you use 320TXP it'll have "tooth" on both sides, i.e. ready to retouch.
You can download this book for free:
https://archive.org/details/photographicfact00wall
The b/w pdf is one I use. There are several formulas for making your own retouching fluid.
Just go to any serious art store. They'll have a spray fixative for this kind of use, to give you tooth on the back of the film. It's a routine "graphics arts" product.
Tin Can
Randy, just looking at the recipes, as well as some others that I found, none of the varnishes are very esoteric, except that the ones based on turpentine will be much slower to dry than the ether ones, and the others will be in between. Otherwise, they resemble many common solvent-based varnishes, and use a variety of resins which appear to actually have very little in common, except that they're resins. The fixative idea doesn't sound off the wall, then, but if you want to play around, I have most of the ingredients necessary with the exception of ether, in my shop. Isn't ether what starting spray is? If so, maybe you can come up with some.
This is a project I've been meaning to try. I suppose the first thing I should try is take some of the normal stuff I use for repairs, and airbrush it on the back of a neg, just to see what happens. . .
Thanks, but I'd rather just watch:
Large format: http://flickr.com/michaeldarnton
Mostly 35mm: http://flickr.com/mdarnton
You want digital, color, etc?: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stradofear
Some things are easier to try than talking. I just took some of my repair varnish and sprayed it on a piece of glass. The result when thick was basically ground-glass looking and wrote on like a piece of paper, but it took very little to give enough tooth for me to sign my name on the glass. I have no idea how visible the frosting it gave would be in prints.
Wiping it on left "brush" marks. Using turpentime, giving time to flow out, might mitigate that. I don't know if they'd be important on negs. I remember the photographer I worked for in high school wiping retouch varnish on negs, but I never bothered to look at the results, so I missed my chance, I guess, by about 50 years....
Sprayable pressurized fixative made a MUCH worse surface than I could with my airbrush--the droplets weren't nearly as finely divided as the airbrush could do. Again, I don't know how much this would matter on film in retouching, but it didn't look that great on a piece of glass.
Thanks, but I'd rather just watch:
Large format: http://flickr.com/michaeldarnton
Mostly 35mm: http://flickr.com/mdarnton
You want digital, color, etc?: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stradofear
Thanks, but I'd rather just watch:
Large format: http://flickr.com/michaeldarnton
Mostly 35mm: http://flickr.com/mdarnton
You want digital, color, etc?: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stradofear
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