4x5 Speed Graphic, exposure settings without meter?

[Dean Taylor]

hello

What we're attempting to accomplish may not be possible without purchasing a light meter--instead, we downloaded a 'sunny 16' paper slide calculator:

http://www.squit.co.uk/photo/files/E...Calculator.pdf

There is an interior shot, 'mood lighting' in restaurant, 4x5 HP+ film...

Please take a moment to help set the f/stop and speed, no flash...first time using the chart, and not certain on the correct reading...somewhere on the chart (at the 'EV' column), it reads, 'Average home, night interior,' EV5.

When we bring the ISO row--ISO 400--to the line up with the EV5, it gives several possibilities for f stop and speed: 1.4/60, 2/30, 2.8/15, 4/8 and 5.8/4.

We'd just choose one (depending upon other concerns, like depth of field, etc.) and release shutter? It's that easy, or do we really need a light meter for this?

thank you

ps: if we wanted to add a Yongnuo yn568ex flash--using manual settings, would the 'sunny 16' chart be unable to assist at that point?

[Andrew]

do you have another camera with a built in light meter like an old 35mm slr etc ? if so you could use that

[Dean Taylor]

would you say, then, that those 'sunny 16' slide charts are much too imprecise to be of any value?

thank you, Andrew...

Dean

[Roboflick]

Or download the light meter app to your phone

[LabRat]

Meters are necessary for those times where the light is contrasty/mixed/artificial or times where I'm just a little slow or tired... Yes, sunny 16, film box instructions, and calculators work in general, but do any of those "read" a scene??? (Shadows, highlights, a face, etc???)

Meters are a good investment, and you won't look back...

Steve K

[Jim Jones]

Charts and extinction meters were among the tools photographers used long before photoelectric meters became popular in the 1930s. The charts do work well outdoors in the conditions where photographers are most likely to be shooting. Some of the charts and slide rules are unnecessarily complex. The chart cited in the first post may be a decent compromise between complexity and inadequacy. In bad weather or indoors, charts demand experience. As a beginner I found the charts that came with the old photoflood lamps useful indoors. Someone good at math might be able to derive exposure from knowing the amount of light typical lamps and fixtures emit. The lighting in many public areas meets certain industrial standards. When photographers stray from familiar conditions, a meter becomes important. They can cost less than the film one wastes without them.

[AtlantaTerry]

Dean,

You could use this as a sign from The Force that it's time to get a light meter.

Terry

[BrianShaw]

Although these old tyme alternatives can work, we found that even the most basic light meter to be quicker and less error prone.

[Oren Grad]

Try it with a 35mm camera first, so that you're not agonizing over the cost per exposure. Forget what everyone says about what a bad idea it is - just take the chart and go do it. Take pictures under a variety of lighting conditions. Examine the resulting negatives to see under what conditions you were on target and where you were off, and in which direction. If you have trouble judging directly from negatives, then make prints. Shoot another roll, tweaking exposures as needed based on what you've learned. Examine the resulting negatives, etc. Repeat for three or four rolls.

Then decide, based on your results and on how much you did or didn't enjoy working that way, whether you want to pursue that approach further and carry it over to your 4x5 work.

[BrianShaw]

For flash the table is not of much use. Knowing the GN of flash and dividing by distance will give the appropriate f-stop value. Again, however, even an inexpensive flash meter is useful.