Removable light proofing method for windows and doors: using your laundry/bathroom as

[umshaun]

I've had success with 6 mil poly sheeting and gaffers tape. It looks like trash though.

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[Jim Noel]

I have 2 methods.
1. if the window is set into the wall, I build a wooden fram which slide in. On top of this is a piece of plywood painted black on the window side which hangs over the edge 4-6" all around. Thisis in my current DR and has been for over 25 years. Mine even has a port through which I can open the window for ventilation when desired.
2. There used to be an extremely dense black plastic made to black out windows. It stayed on the glass via static electricity. Worked great. I just gave my last piece to a friend, or I would send it to you. Perhaps you can find some. One brand had a name similar to "Photographers Friend".

[Jim Noel]

I have 2 methods.
1. if the window is set into the wall, I build a wooden fram which slide in. On top of this is a piece of plywood painted black on the window side which hangs over the edge 4-6" all around. Thisis in my current DR and has been for over 25 years. Mine even has a port through which I can open the window for ventilation when desired.
2. There used to be an extremely dense black plastic made to black out windows. It stayed on the glass via static electricity. Worked great. I just gave my last piece to a friend, or I would send it to you. Perhaps you can find some. One brand had a name similar to "Photographers Friend".

[LabRat]

If you can leave it up, taping aluminum foil over the window works great, or there is a heavy, black construction plastic from your home store that is used (I think) as a moisture barrier for walls and roofing and comes in large enough sheets/rolls enough to make a wall inside a room...

Like Jim, I have made frames over windows using tileboard sheets that work well, but any hanging cover usually has at least one complex area to seal/cover, but OK for night use...

Good luck!!!

Steve K

[Paul Ron]

for the door... get the weather strip built into wood strips from home depot. it nails on with brads. the bottom of the door, i use a door sweep. these can be permenent and painted to match the room and looks finished.

ridgid foam insulating boards, blue or pink depending on the thickness you want, from home depot are cheap. comes in 4'x8' sheets, cut to size for each window and put self stick weather strip at the edges so when you jam it in the frame, it stays put.... otherwise tape it in place using painters tape.

[malexand]

for the door... get the weather strip built into wood strips from home depot. it nails on with brads. the bottom of the door, i use a door sweep. these can be permenent and painted to match the room and looks finished.

ridgid foam insulating boards, blue or pink depending on the thickness you want, from home depot are cheap. comes in 4'x8' sheets, cut to size for each window and put self stick weather strip at the edges so when you jam it in the frame, it stays put.... otherwise tape it in place using painters tape.

I second (or third) the use of foam insulation board - especially useful if you can get the type with a foil backing. This is 100% light proof. Can be easily cut to size and jammed in just about any opening without additional framing, tape or support. If you can find the foil-backed without the brand-name printed on it, even better. It also makes for great lighting reflectors too!