Two-Bath Pyrocat

[sanking]

I am about to finish an article for the web on the use of Pyrocat (all versions) as a two-bath formula. If you are interested in having your favorite film tested with this method, and are willing to contribute a few sheets to the cause, please contact me by PM. I am limiting the article to panchromatic films, ASA 25 to 400, and only those available in 4X5 sheet film. My intention is to include in the article families of characteristic curves for three development times at what I consider the optimum dilution for the specific film.

You can find a fairly thorough discussion on the use of divided Pyrocat in several previous threads on this forum. See http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/

Sandy

[jbenedict]

Safe to assume Tri-X 320, TMY100, TMY400 and Ilford FP4, HP5, Delta 100 are on the list?

[sanking]

Safe to assume Tri-X 320, TMY100, TMY400 and Ilford FP4, HP5, Delta 100 are on the list?

All of these are definitely on the list of films I would like to test!

Sandy

[Philippe Grunchec]

Foma ?

[aflc]

I would love to see delta 100 tested. I'm having some uneven development problems with 2 bath pyro (paterson tank with mod 54). I've had better results increasing agitation and changing the direction of agitation but I still get streaks and darker patches.

[jp]

aflc, you should be trying inversion rather than left/right agitation with the spinner.

[sanking]

With two-bath Pyrocat I develop sheet film in tubes or drums with rotary/continuous agitation. I don't see any uneven development with this procedure, or at least it is very rare.

I develop 120 roll film on stainless steel reels in stainless tanks. Uneven development is not common but may happen on a frame or two every two or three rolls.

To be clear, I recommend the two-bath procedure primarily for a scanning and digital output workflow, not for printing optically. This way, even if there is some slight stain or uneven mark on the film it is easy to correct in PS. Plus, we are developing to a slighter lower average gradient than would be needed for direct optical printing, purpose being to enhance sharpness and keep the appearance of grain to a minimum. I am not saying that it would not be practical for optical printing, only that I don't do it.

Sandy

[aflc]

aflc, you should be trying inversion rather than left/right agitation with the spinner.

Jp498,

I did not describe my technique adequately. I've always inverted the tanks. Now I've started doing more inversions, with a twisting motion and in different directions. Today I developed 6 sheets that came out much better.

All the best,

Alexandre Carneiro

[aflc]

With two-bath Pyrocat I develop sheet film in tubes or drums with rotary/continuous agitation. I don't see any uneven development with this procedure, or at least it is very rare.

I develop 120 roll film on stainless steel reels in stainless tanks. Uneven development is not common but may happen on a frame or two every two or three rolls.

To be clear, I recommend the two-bath procedure primarily for a scanning and digital output workflow, not for printing optically. This way, even if there is some slight stain or uneven mark on the film it is easy to correct in PS. Plus, we are developing to a slighter lower average gradient than would be needed for direct optical printing, purpose being to enhance sharpness and keep the appearance of grain to a minimum. I am not saying that it would not be practical for optical printing, only that I don't do it.

Sandy

Sandy,

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I'm also developing film and then scanning it. The skies in my previous sheets came out very uneven, to the point where correcting in post will be a very time consuming task. As I described above I got much better results today with more agitation (and a little bit more contrast). My remaining problem are artifacts from air bubbles (easily corrected, thankfully). The only solution where I see bubbles forming in any significant amount is in Pyrocat A solution. I will try adding a couple drops of Photoflo as you recommend in previous posts. Any other ideas?

All the best,

Alexandre Carneiro

[Kirk Gittings]

Sandy I've been experimenting with 2BPC. My issue has been quick and even agitation with BTZS tubes. When I get home I will post some pictures of something I have come up with. I've been on the road teaching and shooting for two months now and will be home tomorrow. I only shoot 4x5 and I use two sets of BTZS caps and a DIY PVC tray to hold the tubes (about $10-$15). The tray allows me to easily grab all 6 tubes without "sloshing" the chemistry about and agitate all tubes simultaneously and vigorously. I've been getting no uneven dev. that I can see, but I need to do the real test=blank wall at ZV.