Neutral Density filter and Strobes

[vinny]

Moving a light further from the subject doesn't make it harder but it does make the effective source smaller. A larger source wraps around the subject and softens gradations between highlight and shadow. Try putting the source in as close as you can while hanging a piece of bleached muslin or white ripstop in front of it. Heavy diffusion like this will cut down the intensity while creating a very soft glow. The issue then can be dealig with the extra light that spills onto your background. we often use large (12x12ft honeycombs) directly on the diffusion to keep extraneous light off everything but the subject. you can do this yourself on a much smaller scale if you like. Greg, I believe we're saying the same thing but I just like to use the proper terms.

[bc_69]

Ok thanks for the helpful feedback, there is plenty of ideas to try, I'll keep experimenting until I get the result I am after. I have got muslin and a ND filter, I'll give both a try and post the results.

[bc_69]

Greg, that sounds like an idea, with so much on the net now it can sometimes be overpowering and confusing, but I'll check it out.

[Lightbender]

Lighting well with strobes is extremely difficult unless you have something to test with. Used to be polaroids. Now digital is your friend for this.
-for really diffuse lighting, bounce off the walls.
However, if you are in a small area, the walls may reflect so much the subject can look flat. (this will happen even if the lights are in a softbox pointing at the subject)
A ND filter over the lens will not help. Dimming the flash or using a ND filter on the flash will not help either. (there will still be 1 stop less light at each interval)

Its all about A. the distance from the light source and B. the surrounding light.
You can put the source close to the subject for extreme light falloff (and hotspots), or far away for more even light.
You can control the shadows with either additional lights, or more diffusion.

You can also get an idea of the result with a flashmeter by rotating it around. First pointing at the camera, then turn it 90 degrees. if you have a dome style meter, try it again full 180 degrees.

[bc_69]

Cheers Lightbender, Moving the light further away looks to be the answer, plus I'm going to reduce its intensity. I've been reading Mortensen's Pictorial Lighting which I have found fascinating and he recommends the same approach. See how that goes and keep experimenting, another thing Mortensen is big on, do as many samples as possible until you get it right he writes, obviously he didn't have to pay what we do for film, lol.

BC