Sometimes love just ain't enough.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pierre506/sets/
Hey Pierre!
It was amazing to read & see what you have done to bring this camera back to life!
Did you receive in the meantime the drawings for the adjusting lens plates too?
I would LOVE to own this camera too. But 1-2 of them I've seen were ridiculously overpriced. (Maybe Ed's friend who is selling one doesn't look for whole fortune?)
Keep up with amazing work guys. So good to see what some members of this community are able to do for the well being of Large Format Photography!
Misko,
The one I knew of for sale (Pieter) has been sold a while back. They do turn up for sale for reasonable $. I am building boards right now to fit a pair of 150 xenotars to mine, almost done with that. I can help supply info on the adjusting board(s), though for the xenotar boards I will probably use shims (washers, essentially) to adjust to accomodate minor focal length differences, due to the size/diameter of the xenotar.
Ed
A TLR with two Xenotar 150mm will be an amazing camera, would love to see it when it's completed. I assume the taking lens is in Compur 2 or Compur/Copal 3 and the viewing lens in barrel? I mounted a Heliar 210mm in Copal 3s and a Aviar 210mm on mine and had to fabricate adapters and shims to get them mounted as I recall the bayonet mounts were too small. The Heliar and Aviar seem to have synchronised focus throughout the range, I guess the focal lengths must be very close just by luck. It must be even more critical with the Xenotar shooting at F2.8. I quite like the ergonomics of the TWR with the two big handle knobs and the lockable arm to hold the cable release for horizontal shots, but a bit awkward for portraits. The Gowlandflex is better in that regard because of the rotating back and square 5x5 viewing screen.
Sometimes love just ain't enough.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pierre506/sets/
Henry, thanks for sharing the pics of yours - it looks quite interesting. I haven't seen a cable-release holder like that before, mine doesn't have one. I wonder if it's original?
Here's a picture of mine, taking lens is in Compur 2, viewing lens is in barrel. I had to shim one of the lenses about 1-1.5mm or so to make them match up, but they were very close right off the bat.
Agreed, it's not the most ergonomic for verticals but not too bad, all things considered.
Some more pics of mine, including making the lens boards, is here: http://www.edsawyer.com/lens/Cambo_TWR/
I was going to put a pair of Nikkor-T 270mm lenses on, but then I sold one of them, so now I only have one of those. (may get another someday). In the meantime I use that (nikkor-T) on a 3x4 RB SuperD converted to 4x5.
-Ed
Hi Ed, thanks for sharing the pics, that looks great! I think a calibrated TLR like yours would be the best way to ensure you can nail the focus at F2.8 for handheld candids. Does the cam work well at maximum extension? With the 210mm, I can only do a slightly closer than 3/4 portraits. The cam on mine is curved and asymmetrical: the taking lens goes down a lot more than the taking lens goes up. Even then I had to shim the Copal 3 a bit to clear the cross bar. The lockable arm that holds the cable release is original I believe it has two protrusion that fit into a slot on the female side to prevent it from rotating.
Henry
hi Henry -
Sorry for late reply. Later I will scan and post some shots from with the TWR/Xenotar combo at f/2.8 and minimum stock cam focus distance. It can do a nice tight head-and-shoulders size image on 4x5, from my experience. You can definitely nail focus @ f/2.8 for candid handheld shots. I often shoot at f/4 though for a little more smoothness in the bokeh and a bit more sharpness.
Thanks for the info on your setup and the cross bar and such - that looks like an interesting piece of the puzzle. I don't have that on mine, and haven't seen it on others before.
Custom cams seem fairly common for users of these cameras I think. I recently made one for myself, using 2mm aluminum and making it with various hand tools. It's not the prettiest but it does work well. The precision needed on these is fairly tight, basically all surfaces (edges) of the cam come into play at some point on it's usage, not just the inner slots.
For my 150 custom cam pictured, I wanted a closer close-focus distance than the stock cam. Basically I just traced out the stock one and then extended the length of it a fair bit more. After some adjustments, it's working fine, quite smooth in operation.
Mine is aluminum but I think the stock ones are made out of chromed brass.
-Ed
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