does anyone know how to clean the rust off a lens chuck?

[phillip2446]

i bought a large lens chuck here awhile ago and it came with a lot of rust on the blades. can anyone recommend a way to take off the rust without ruining the blades.
thanks

[Jac@stafford.net]

Presuming you are writing about a universal lens mount (iris type), then the blades are quite robust. I have restored two by using a rust remover and tooth brush. Clean in mildly diluted detergent and dry thoroughly, then thinly coat with a light oil, then dry with a micro-fiber cloth. If you have compressed air it helps with the later two operations.

[phillip2446]

thanks. any particular brand of rust remover?

[Jac@stafford.net]

thanks. any particular brand of rust remover?

Evapo-Rust is good stuff. Just soak the whole thing in a shallow pan for several minutes, wipe with toothbrush, repeat.

When the rust is all gone, I apply a little oil on the blades, and work them open and closed, then wipe dry just for my own peace of mind. It is not really necessary.

[Steven Tribe]

These are made in quite a few designs.
Most are easily taken apart (and reassembled!). There are not too parts to keep tabs on.
Apart from removing surface rust, it might be a good idea to straighten the individual blades and lubricate the turning and locking mechanisms.

I have suggested this be moved to DIY!

[Struan Gray]

The one I have, and others I have handled, have had the steel blades blued to resist corrosion. If you have a metal shop nearby (or are not afraid of home chemistry) re-doing the blueing might be good for preventing further rust. The only real issue is making sure that whatever is holding in the pivot pins is not damaged by heat or caustic chems - a brazed pin, for example, might not cope with prolonged immersion in strong acid/alkali.

[goamules]

Vinegar diluted about 50% with water works well for rust removal. Just soak it for about 1 hour at first, and see if that does the trick. Use a little 0000 steel wool. It's metal, you're not going to hurt it any more than the rust already did. But don't soak it for days, the acid could eventually pit the metal a little. Though the rust already did that. Oil is always used on blued metal to avoid rusting. But if the tool was in a damp basement for decades, etc, it will eventually wear off.

[toolbox]

Google "electrolytic rust removal"...all you need is an automotive type battery charger and some washing soda. I've used it when restoring my Teletype model 15...works great! I usually dry metal parts in my toaster oven (I have one that lives in my shop). Set it for 150* for about 10 minutes, and that will usually do the trick. An air compressor or hairdryer works too.

[AtlantaTerry]

Instead of oil (which can attract dust then get messy) why not use a dry lube such as molybdenum disulfide?

[Jac@stafford.net]

Instead of oil (which can attract dust then get messy) why not use a dry lube such as molybdenum disulfide?

The powder is super invasive - it can move into your lens and possibly the camera. It is horribly difficult to remove.
.