Hanging 44" prints

[Drew Wiley]

So no permanent mounting? Weights at the corners, clips at the top? I think that looks awful, but I do know one now-famous color photographer who resorted to
the thumbtack method when he first started making big prints. Of course, he didn't sell much of anything back then either, and certainly doesn't display things that
way now that he is successful. But if you are hanging them, literally suspending them, you would not want to do it from the corners, but using a top bottom
bars, much like Asian calligraphic scrolls are sometimes suspended.

[nonuniform]

I print everything myself.

Well, I think I'm going to create a system for hanging these. I have some ideas, but I was hoping someone had already tried solving this problem. Having talked to various galleries, I know I'm not the only one that wants to do this in a way that isn't cost-prohibitive.

[nonuniform]

Yeah, I was thinking of creating a method of suspending them.

I've been making big prints since the late 80's, but I've always been dissatisfied with traditional framing.

[Jon Shiu]

There is a thing called posterhanger that can hang large prints for display.

Jon

[nonuniform]

There is a thing called posterhanger that can hang large prints for display.

Jon

Yeah, posterhanger works. I knew someone had solved this!

[Tin Can]

Nice solution and I hate glass or plastic in front of my prints anyway.

Very affordable and scalable.

There is a thing called posterhanger that can hang large prints for display.

Jon

[nonuniform]

Nice solution and I hate glass or plastic in front of my prints anyway.

Very affordable and scalable.

Yup, the only thing I've read is that some paper is too heavy for the plastic clips. It gives me an idea though, to create something similar that would clamp a set of aluminum bars top and bottom.

[Darko Pozar]

Temporary hanging: Can use plastic poster hangers which clip into top and bottom of print and keeps image flat against wall but can damage edges Thumbtacks: will give a rusted permanent hole in each corner & weight of the print will rip out thumbtacks. Laminates with turn image yellow. Photos in any open environment are exposed to contaminants in the air which deteriorate and discolour your image. Best solution is to frame both visually and maybe economically. Tips: photo must be mounted using ARCHIVAL/MUSEUM mat board or at least temporarily with acid-free board with image SEPARATED from glass/perspex (artwork will stick to glass even create mould.) Framing positives: Photo even more visually stunning & can stay there forever OR you can reuse the frame with another photo same size. Original mounted photo can be sealed/stored and new photo only needs to be mounted and fitted into frame saving big dolllars as both frame and glass/perspex are reused. Also ask for a better price they will want your business. Good luck.

[matthew klos]

If these are silver gelatin prints which may have earlier been said if they go un mounted they will in the end up being wrecked. one mishandling and it will get a crink in it, and for that matter if you went to the cost and effort of making a siler mural print do yourself a favor and have it moutned. If cost is an issue which it seems to be have it mounted to aluminum with a bracket off the back.

Another note, Dibond should not be used for mounting silver prints. Silver gealtin prints should be mounted with heat activated tissue, dibond is made up of a foam core with two thin sheets of alumnium on the outside. The foam can melt during the mounting process. Nor should a silver print be cold mounted through a laminator over time the print will peel.

[matthew klos]

Just another thought gator board, and mattboard change drastically to humidty, and will soak up moisture very very fast.