Shutter release cable for 1947 Crown Graphic 4X5 with 127/4.5 lens

[tom thomas]

I recently got the above mentioned camera that came without the shutter release cable assembly. The release button is mounted on the case though. It has the 127mm, f4.7 Kodak Ektar lens in a Graphic Supermatic (X) shutter. It has a Number 2 flash synchronizer attached instead so it looks like the shutter is intended to be tripped by the flash unit. Since then I've noticed several other Crown Graphics with the same 127mm lens that are also missing the cable release assembly but also has the release button on the case.

Did some models of Crowns, ca 1948, come like this or did owners strip out the cable release assemblies? I have a WTB request here for one and am wondering if the camera had one originally.

Thanx

[Tin Can]

Pics would be good.

[tom thomas]

Pics would be good.

Wish I could, the pics I downloaded from the E=B** listing, 151211144325, are smaller than postage stamps so not visible. Try searching for the listing number I included. I just now found one with the same lens/shutter that has the release cable and trip mechanism. Guess the "old guy" took it off. but that means several other "old guys or gals" did too.

[Tin Can]

I thought you have the camera in hand.

These cameras were constantly modified, many thought the shutter cable was 'too heavy' or some similar foolishness.

Try to buy unmodified.

Wish I could, the pics I downloaded from the E=B** listing, 151211144325, are smaller than postage stamps so not visible. Try searching for the listing number I included. I just now found one with the same lens/shutter that has the release cable and trip mechanism. Guess the "old guy" took it off. but that means several other "old guys or gals" did too.

[Dan Fromm]

Tom, are you asking about a solenoid shutter tripper or about the infernal mechanism that consists of a cable running from the inside of the box (operated by the body shutter release) to a gadget with a paddle on the right side of the front standard. The camera in 151211144325 has a solenoid, doesn't have the mechanism that allows tripping the shutter by pressing on the camera's body shutter release.

The cable, paddle etc. were all standard issue. The paddle is pretty much shutter-specific. I've seen at least three different sizes; any one paddle won't function properly with all shutters. The cable is prone to getting caught and pinched and damaged when the bed is run all the way in before the camera is closed. I have three Pacemaker Graphics, have removed the cable, paddle etc. from all three. For me, if not for everyone, the mechanism is a useless nuisance.

[BradS]

It is very common for the body mounted shutter release mechanism to be removed from the pacemaker Crown/ Speed graphics. I think this is due to several factors. When they work properly and smoothly, they are fantastic. Unfortunately, in my own experience (sample size of eight), they rarely work properly and are far from smooth in operation. The mechanism is commonly either stuck, badly mis-adjusted or simply so difficult to operate that thier use results in camera shake. I admit to liberating a few of my Crowns from the cable and associated detritus. I might still have the parts around here somewhere....if you're interested. Frankly, I do not think it worth the time and effort to put this mechinsm back on a camera. I'd get rid of the solenoid too (but you might want to wait untill you've used up all those flash bulbs!).

[tom thomas]

Tom, are you asking about a solenoid shutter tripper or about the infernal mechanism that consists of a cable running from the inside of the box (operated by the body shutter release) to a gadget with a paddle on the right side of the front standard. The camera in 151211144325 has a solenoid, doesn't have the mechanism that allows tripping the shutter by pressing on the camera's body shutter release.

The cable, paddle etc. were all standard issue. The paddle is pretty much shutter-specific. I've seen at least three different sizes; any one paddle won't function properly with all shutters. The cable is prone to getting caught and pinched and damaged when the bed is run all the way in before the camera is closed. I have three Pacemaker Graphics, have removed the cable, paddle etc. from all three. For me, if not for everyone, the mechanism is a useless nuisance.

Hi Dan, yes it's the "infernal" mechanism that I'm looking for. From what you say, it was probably damaged, then removed. I'd like to find a working cable to replace it. I found a nice one for a 23 Miniature in good shape that has the front standard mount and paddle. Cable is too short though for the 4X5 so I'm hoping to find one as I'm restoring the camera.

The shutter doesn't have the screw hole for an external shutter release cable and I don't have a Heiland 3-cell unit that fits the flash mount on this camera. As you would have seen in the photo, the seller apparently wanted to make money on his Star Wars light sabre so left the top and bulbs.

As it turns out the front lens is worthless, cloudy and mildewed inside so I found a replacement on E-*** that has the shutter with cable release hole in it. But, if the lens is good and the shutter worthless, I'll have to use the original shutter which seems to be spot on at all speeds. I was surprised about that as this camera appears to have spent many years in that musty case.

[Leonard Robertson]

I always find the shutter release on the side of the body to be kind of clunky with too much free-play. You can fire the shutter without it, with a finger tip right where the link to the solenoid attaches. You may need to unhook the solenoid from the release arm on the shutter. I don't consider the missing cable any great loss.

If you are new to Graphic cameras, train yourself to always rack the focus fully to the rear before folding up the front door. If you don't, it is easy to bend the focus tracks. It is good to push the front door up gently. You will feel resistance if the focus track isn't in the right position.

Len

[tom thomas]

I always find the shutter release on the side of the body to be kind of clunky with too much free-play. You can fire the shutter without it, with a finger tip right where the link to the solenoid attaches. You may need to unhook the solenoid from the release arm on the shutter. I don't consider the missing cable any great loss.

If you are new to Graphic cameras, train yourself to always rack the focus fully to the rear before folding up the front door. If you don't, it is easy to bend the focus tracks. It is good to push the front door up gently. You will feel resistance if the focus track isn't in the right position.

Len

Thanx Len. I am just trying to restore the camera to it's original state. No problem with releasing the shutter on the lens itself actually. And, I do retract the rails fully. I'm looking forward to trying the camera out when I get it cleaned up a bit. Old cigar or cigarette stains on the leather and dry bellows detract from its natural beauty so I'll carefully get the leather and bellows back in good shape if I can. Graflock back looks functional, viewing lens and fresnel are yellowed with stains so will restore them too.

[toolbox]

When the cable is clean and the plunger adjusted the release seems to work pretty slick. The cables tend to get crud in the spring sheath thing and they start to stick...which is probably why a lot of them get removed. If the bellows is stinky and full of dirt don't be afraid to pull it off the camera and clean it. They're actually pretty tough. You can submerge the whole thing in hot soapy water (Simple Green works really well) and work it back and forth to clean it. The cable will get cleaned at the same time. An old toothbrush works great to scrub it with. You can stretch it out and hang it up to dry. You can leave the front standard attached if you want, it won't hurt it. Early cameras have crimped in tabs to retain the bellows that you have to bend to get it out. Kind of a pain, but probably still worth it since it's so much easier to clean the bellows with it off the camera. Graflex had instructions in the service manual to retrofit an early camera with a late style bellows, so it's possible it could have one...