Fitting lenses to a Graflex Series D 4x5

[Roger Hesketh]

Len The stacking plywood pieces approach to create extra extension I had been planning to use to stop the rear of the lens hitting the mirror. I suppose that approach could be used to gain the extra extension needed to make the aperture ring accessible. I will try to find some long thin bolts to bolt the flange right though the entire width of the extension. The lens is heavy and one would worry about the glue between the plywood sheets coming apart. Since I have damaged one of the side pieces I might as well move both or fold them up out of the way. You have some good ideas their and have given me much food for thought. Much obliged to you Sir.
Roger

[AtlantaTerry]

Roger has sent me another picture that's somewhat clearer. http://sdrv.ms/19711yf

I can't see the photo because you stored it on Microsoft's Sky Drive and a password is needed to proceed.

[Roger Hesketh]

I just clicked the link and it worked.

[jnantz]

i'm not sure but i think the 15" tele optars were usable on the telegraflxes slr's not the standard d-series.
the building an extension lensboard / top hat i guess would work with a D, but it always seemed like
too much effort for me ( for both teleoptars i have ), i just stuck with short rear element lenses. some cost less than
the materials and effort used to make accessory lensboards, and extensions would shift the weight FRONT
and make the camera awkward to handle and shoot, AND at least on mine risk messing with the front standard.

as with everything, YMMV

john

[Dan Fromm]

Terry, try again.

John, the bible, 10th edition, and the brochure I posted a link for state clearly that the lens is an option for D and Super D.

[jnantz]

Terry, try again.

John, the bible, 10th edition, and the brochure I posted a link for state clearly that the lens is an option for D and Super D.

huh

i've tried a handful of times over the years, from what i remember, neither of the lenses have rear element / mirror clearance.
maybe ... there were accessory lensboards ?

[blueribbontea]

I use the tele-optar regularly on the RB model D. What was required was a modification of the camera front standard. I installed a sliding lock at the bottom and two swinging clips high up on the sides. A little bit of light seal material at the top finished the job. To make this work required losing the closing door and flaps. I thought the advantage of the lens was worth it. In this position there is no problem in racking the track all the way in for transport.

[mdarnton]

I can't find it now, but I remember seeing a mount that Steve Grimes made that was a ring that fastened to the back of the lens board. The ring was a slip fit for the unthreaded extending back of the back lens unit, and there was a screw on the side of the ring that tightened the ring around the back of the lens. (the ring had a split, with two ears, one on either side, and a bolt between them to tighten the gap). That way most of the lens was hanging out ahead of the front of the board while the back was clamped into the ring. It was very clever, and would be a good way to hook up the lens under discussion.

Just imagine hanging one of these, of the right hole size for the back of the lens, behind the hole in the board: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/321105494199?lpid=82

[Leonard Robertson]

I found a picture of the factory 15" Optar mounted for the Super D on the last page of the Super brochure here: http://www.cameraeccentric.com/html/...raflex_16.html
It looks to me to be on a flat lens board and the aperture ring is just in front of the board. I guess Graflex expected the user to have good eyesight and nimble fingers to be able to reach back inside the front standard and change f-stops.

I like blueribbontea's idea of moving the lens board mounting position to the front of the standard. I assume the modification doesn't prevent using shorter FL lenses back in the original board position.

Roger - I don't have a lens or board on my D, since it sadly has a torn shutter curtain and isn't useable. I seem to remember needing to tilt the lens and board slightly either up or down when removing it. I maybe be wrong about this, but you might experiment before building an extension board to see if you do need the board to be small enough to have room to tilt it. I mentioned the model aircraft plywood as a material for stacking. There is also a cabinet grade plywood available which is much thicker and would save a lot of gluing. Two pieces of 3/4" thickness would give you a good amount of extension. A cabinet shop might have scraps available. I agree that using long machine screws going entirely through the lens board is a good idea. I usually do this when I have a lens where the flange mounts on the front face of the lens board.

Len

[blueribbontea]

"I like blueribbontea's idea of moving the lens board mounting position to the front of the standard. I assume the modification doesn't prevent using shorter FL lenses back in the original board position."

Right, I just unclip and move the slider and take the lens off, and putting the other lens back in the original position, and you are right about having to tip it a bit.