Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21

Thread: Still Life & Flash Metering

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    650

    Re: Still Life & Flash Metering

    All philosophy of metering technique aside, it is possible to make photographs---even with flash---without a meter.

    If you aren't using color film, and have easy access to a darkroom, you can make a three or four value exposure test on one sheet of film by pulling the darkslide in increments, just like making a test strip when printing. There may well be someone around who has used that equipment before, and who can tell you roughly where to start.

    Pick the working aperture that you want to use, and adjust exposure by multiple flash pops---if you set up the picture and like the way it looks on the groundglass at f/11, you may be surprised if a meter convinces you to open up to f/4.5! This will work fine if you are doing "classic" still life and keep the flash about the same distance away from the subject all the time. If you want to do dramatic things (backlighting, very high key, etc.) then you will need a spot meter and/or a lot of testing. But for a given room, light source, film and development, the exposure should be relatively consistent and well within the fim's latitude.

    Good luck, and let us know how it works out over on the image sharing/still life thread!

    Harold

  2. #12
    Cor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Leiden, The Netherlands
    Posts
    764

    Re: Still Life & Flash Metering

    Coming late here in the thread, but I am getting (just) a bit confused here on the subject of flash metering.

    My approach is (pretty sure I was taught this way, long long ago..):

    Say for a portrait:
    I use 2 strobes both at an angle of roughly 45 deg left and right from the person, one of them further away (I can only send equal amounts of power from my generator to both identical strobe heads).

    I us a simple Quantum Calcu-flash II meter (bought 20 years ago in NYC at 42nd Street Photo, were traditionally dressed Jewish man ran op and down ladders to get ordered stuff from shelves, but I digress). With the white dome installed for incident measurement.

    I first point from the head of the person straight to the camera, and fire and measure: that's my f stop.

    Then I check the light balance by pointing from the same position to either strobe head, to see if the ration is between 1/2-3/4 stop difference (or other if desired.

    If I understand above posts i am approach this wrongly, although OTOH Leigh points out that there are different personal approaches to this, as long as it works and you are consistent.

    My portraits come out fine, exposure wise..


    best,

    Cor

  3. #13
    C. D. Keth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    2,089

    Re: Still Life & Flash Metering

    Quote Originally Posted by Leigh View Post
    Back when I was teaching photography, this was my #1 law, that I stapled to everybody's forehead at the beginning of every class. "Do what the manufacturer tells you to do, exactly, every time, and you'll get consistent results."

    Whether those results are what you want or not is a different question.
    You may need to change the process to achieve your "vision".

    - Leigh
    What's the point of consistency if the results aren't what you want, though? It's like a car manufacturer saying, "You can have your pickup truck in fuchsia. It's a very consistent color."
    -Chris

  4. #14
    retrogrouchy
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Adelaide, Australia
    Posts
    832

    Re: Still Life & Flash Metering

    Quote Originally Posted by oneshotbeary View Post
    Hi,

    I'm new to the forum & Large Format Photography. I have the use of a LF camera in a college studio for a little while an i'd like to do some still life LF with it. However i'm not sure of the process i should use when metering with Flash.I think i need to use flash as i was getting some lengthy meter readings with out the flash which would probably cause reciprocity failure.

    How can i meter using the studio flash if i can't attach the camera to the flash?

    Thanks!
    a) if you have the right films (Acros, TMY2), reciprocity failure isn't really a problem and you might be able to avoid flashes.
    b) you don't connect the camera to the flash during metering. Easiest thing is to have a wireless trigger, hold the (incident) flash meter wherever you want a measurement, press the transmitter for the flash and look at your reading. Adjust lighting until happy with readings, then plug the wireless transmitter into the lens' flash-sync port, insert film and expose.
    c) you can also preview your exposure with a DSLR. This is sometimes contentious here because a few people have not setup their DSLR properly (e.g. DRO-type functions OFF) and gotten misleading results. IMHO this is the best approach because it basically gives you a polaroid and you can check out all the shadow placements etc, the only drawback being you can't check the exact composition and camera focusing.
    d) it's harder if your lens doesn't have a flash sync port (unlikely), but you can do it manually. Get the room dark enough that a 1s exposure is irrelevant, use B mode on the shutter, one hand on the shutter cable and one hand on the flash remote. You can manually fire the flash while the shutter is open with an exposure of less than 1/4 second.

  5. #15
    Mark Sawyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Stuck inside of Tucson with the Neverland Blues again...
    Posts
    6,268

    Re: Still Life & Flash Metering

    Quote Originally Posted by oneshotbeary View Post
    How can i meter using the studio flash if i can't attach the camera to the flash?

    Thanks!
    Attach the meter to the flash. Duh...

    You're welcome.
    "I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia USA
    Posts
    1,023

    Re: Still Life & Flash Metering

    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Stone View Post
    Here's a video of Mr. Collins doing his thing:

    http://youtu.be/uL2NG-0GnM0

    -DS
    Thank you for the link. Very informative.

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    667

    Re: Still Life & Flash Metering

    Quote Originally Posted by Leigh View Post
    ... For incident readings, aim the meter toward the camera, pointed halfway obetween the flash and the lens axis.

    Alternatively, you can take a reflected reading from a gray card set at the subject, again pointed halfway between the camera and flash. - Leigh

    Quote Originally Posted by lenser View Post
    Leigh, I'm going to gently disagree with your suggestion on pointing the meter toward the camera for the incident reading. That would only be accurate in one of two circumstances, first if the main light was also at the camera position in which case you could establish your value for the main light, and secondly, if you are trying to set the value for the fill lighting to compare it to the main for contrast ratio, assuming that the main is coming from another direction.

    To establish the highlight exposure range (and then be able to adjust it for the desired zone value) the incident dome must be aimed at the main light, wherever it is located. Then you can set the fill range and expand or contract the contrast ratios as you wish by incident readings of that source and then the appropriate brightness adjustments.

    That part of the thought process is identical to making ambient readings and adjustments. The way you described will work after a fashion, but it won't be strictly accurate.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cor View Post
    ... Say for a portrait:
    I use 2 strobes both at an angle of roughly 45 deg left and right from the person, one of them further away (I can only send equal amounts of power from my generator to both identical strobe

    I first point from the head of the person straight to the camera, and fire and measure: that's my f stop.

    Then I check the light balance by pointing from the same position to either strobe head, to see if the ration is between 1/2-3/4 stop difference (or other if desired.

    If I understand above posts i am approach this wrongly, although OTOH Leigh points out that there are different personal approaches to this, as long as it works and you are consistent. My portraits come out fine, exposure wise... Cor
    ____

    Hmmm... Very, Very interesting!

    I wasn't going to 'chime in' here... But for the 'sake' of those who are perhaps newer to Flash Photography or for those who may honestly not know the 'Correct Way' to use a Flash Meter or Light meter -- I could not say nothing!

    This is just *far too important of a subject.. For me to simply ignore...
    --

    K.

    Let's take a Vote:

    Thus far... We now have either:


    1). Aim Meter... Directly 'Half Way' between the Main Light and Camera.

    2). Aim Meter... Directly towards the Main Light.

    3). Aim Meter... Directly towards the Camera.


    Obviously, all three of the above cited techniques cannot be 100% 'Technically Correct'.

    Two (2) of the three (3) above cited techniques... Can usually produce consistent results -- And apparently their 'adherents' are happy with these results!

    But, as lenser (Tim) has so previously eloquently stated:

    The results obtained (*With at least one of the other 'Metering Techniques')... Were 'Primarily Based' ('In part')... Because of the 'specific' Lighting Ratios -- That were employed (*And NOT necessarily based upon use of the best 'Flash Metering Technique').
    --
    If anyone is perhaps interested in a more detailed discussion of this subject (i.e. a 'Technical Analysis') and why this is all so... I would be more than happy to put it together!
    --
    However for now, I would strongly suggest that if you are looking for a 100% 'Fool Proof' 'Flash Metering Technique' -- That always yields consistent results... That you try Method # 2:

    (Aim Meter... Directly towards the Main Light).

    This technique will work in ALL Lighting Situations and not in just some of them.
    --
    Best Regards,

    -Tim.

    ________

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Santa Barbara
    Posts
    1,376

    Re: Still Life & Flash Metering

    #3

    I always figured - why not meter what the camera sees?

    I do check each light separate (if I'm using more than two which I mostly don't) to see if one is overpowering the other though

    and I check top and bottom and each side to make sure the light fall off is okay

    then I take a polaroid

    then I start burning film

  9. #19
    Mark Sawyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Stuck inside of Tucson with the Neverland Blues again...
    Posts
    6,268

    Re: Still Life & Flash Metering

    Hold the meter where the subject is, and face it in different directions for different information. Point it at the main light and you're essentially taking an incident spot-metering of the highlight. Face it towards fill-lights/reflectors/absorbers (or just away from the main light), and you can check the difference in illumination between the highlight and shadow areas. Face it towards the camera, and it's an overall average reading.

    Taking different readings and taking notes is especially helpful in figuring out your lighting arrangements. Can you accurately previsualize the results from a one-stop and three-stop difference in lighting on the two sides of a face?
    "I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    667

    Re: Still Life & Flash Metering

    Quote Originally Posted by DrTang View Post
    ... I always figured - why not meter what the camera sees?
    ____

    Simple Answer:

    If you are taking a 'Reflected Reading'... Then you of course would want to 'Meter' -- From the 'Camera Position'...

    However, if you are using an 'Incident Meter' (*Light 'Falling' on the Subject)... Then the advice that Mark has so nicely stated -- Would put you in 'Very Good Measure!!!'
    --
    Best Regards,

    -Tim.

    ________

Similar Threads

  1. Sinar 8x10 bag bellow for metering or non-metering back
    By Linhof in forum Cameras & Camera Accessories
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 20-Sep-2013, 18:37
  2. spot metering flash?
    By cosmicexplosion in forum Style & Technique
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 29-Oct-2012, 17:57
  3. How is the Minolta Spotmeter F for flash metering?
    By Frank Petronio in forum Gear
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-Mar-2012, 14:50
  4. Zone Metering Portrait w/ Studio Flash
    By Pawlowski6132 in forum Style & Technique
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 19-May-2010, 04:18
  5. Tungstene Better Than Flash For Still Life ?
    By Gauthier d'Ydewalle in forum Style & Technique
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 28-Oct-2001, 13:19

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •