Nice job, Robert.Originally Posted by Robert Brazile
Glad that a few of my ideas seemed to work out for you; but like Cletus indicated, it's very much a group effort here.
And don't worry about the wiring error, I'm pretty sure that circuit breakers were invented for amateur 'electricians' like us. :>)
Best of luck on your Carbon Project, Jim
If either of you are still subscribed to this thread, did you use the F25T8 tubes that are ~17" long for this build? I'm having a hell of a time figuring out what ballast to use with those tubes. If you guys are running F25T8s off the Fulham Work Horse WH5-120-L, then I'll just do that as well.
I'm still around, but have forgotten the details. I'll look when I get home.
Robert
OK, managed to dig up the old order. They are the 18" tubes, but not F25T8, mine are F15T8 BLBs driven by Fulham Workhorse 5 WH5-120-L ballasts. Hope this helps.
From a product description I managed to find with Google: "The EIKO 15526 F15T8/BL is a preheat fluorescent bulb optimized for ultraviolet output at 350 nanometers, a wavelength within the UVA blacklight spectrum.
This 15 watt lamp results in 2.6 watts of ultraviolet at the target wavelength. The bulb is 18 inches long with a 1 inch diameter and a G13 medium bipin base.
Applications for the F15T8/BL include insect traps, curing and photo enlarging."
Robert
I used the Fulham Workhorse WHS-120-L for my build, as I said above, because the specs said they'd work fine and drive 4 bulbs as opposed to 2, thus limiting costs.
Also, the BLB choice was that they had the right spectral output and I found a deal on them (my Home Depot was trying to cut stock). My understanding is that normally these would not be the least expensive alternative. I think someone said that BL's might be spectral-ly fine and normally less $$$.
Best, Jim
A big shot in the dark on this one, but does anyone know the dimensions used for the uv box in this post? Sorry to revive old threads.
Exterior:
Width: 26 5/8" Depth: 22" Height: 13 3/8"
Interior:
Width: 25 1/8" Depth: 21"
Let me know if you need more info, Jim
That's awesome. Thank you very much. I appreciate it.
Hi, I'm in the process of building a UV box - would someone be able to help me validate my circuit diagram? I messed up in my original design and ended up blowing through a few ballasts ($$$ lesson).
I'm using similar components to those in this build thread -
* Terminal Block (1) [600v, 30amp]
* SPST Rocker Switch (2) [125vac, 16amp]
* Fulham WH-5 120V Ballasts (3) [120vac, 1.15amp]
* F25T8 UV Tubes (12) [25 watts]
* Leviton 23351 T8 Shunted Tombstones (24)
* Grainger 4WT47 Fans (2) [115vac, 0.18/0.21a, 18/20 watts]
I'm concerned about -
* The switch and the power delivered to the ballasts,
* The two independent circuits sharing the same "out" (Switch 1. Lamps + Ballasts, Switch 2. Fans). If I calculate this properly ~300-360 watts will be on Switch 1 and ~36-40 watts on Switch 2.
Also, once a fuse is blown on the Fulham ballast, are they replaceable/repairable? I opened up one of the ballast cases and it's covered/sealed in silicon.
I would recommend an isolation transformer between the wall and your appliance, 120VAC input and 120VAC output while you're testing the design. I would also install an IEC receptacle with a fuse bult-in or install a fuse just after the power receptacle. The switch is rated at 16amp, each ballast draws 1.15amp, and there are 3 ballasts, the fans draw insignificant amount, so you're not anywhere near exceeding 16amp rating of the switch. Why not use a DPDT switch so the fans come on automatically? A cheap ballast could have poor overload protection and would blows itself up if the load is not connected, imbalance load, or high side shorted to ground. Perhaps use a ballast with a better warranty. Do not open the ballast, it's probably beyond your level.
On the schematic, why are the switches connected to neutral?
Last edited by Jeff T; 17-May-2019 at 11:31.
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