Deardorff Bi-Post assembly instructions needed

[Tin Can]

Hi Joe,

I would appreciate any pictures you can supply here or in a PM.

I do know, from online pictures, there are variations of this stand.

My cables use swageless connectors and I plan to use 2 new ones to shorten the cables, bicycle chain is something I do know.

Thanks in advance for any pictures and advice you can offer.

Randy,

I recently completed a complete teardown and rebuild of the exact same stand. The friction block do mount inside of the collars that slide up and down the pipe. There are eccentric brass levers on the side of the collars that when turned clamp the pipe to the collar. They are just an additional method of locking the collars tight. i hope that helps. Cutting the pipe was the easy part. I just used a grinder and a cut off wheel, use wide tape to draw a line around the tube and go for it. The tops of the tubes don't need to be absolutely square as the cast top piece covers this completely. The biggest problem I had were the swedge anchors on the ends of the cables and getting the cables the correct length. There isn't a lot of adjustment for the getting the cable to the correct length. The same goes for the chain. If you need any pictures to help assembly let me know.

Joe

[joe a kras]

Randy,

I checked the photos I have and none of them specifically show these friction plates. They go inside the collars that you show the picture of earlier. The collar sections with the guide wheels about halfway down inside. They are friction between the collars and the tubes and have nothing to do with the weights, as the weights are inside the tube and the friction plates are on the exterior of the pipe. There is no mechanical connection for these. They float inside a cast pocket and the nub on the back side is what the eccentric cam lobe presses against the force this against the pipe. On the colar (DEARDORFF ABA-1 stamped on the side) there is a cast brass lever with a ball dent that locks this friction plate against the pipe column. The lever has a brass shaft that has a cam lob on it the presses against this floating friction plate. Truthfully, I never use this function as the weights counter the camera weight and the worm drive for raising and lowering locks down and the platform doesn't move.
One other point, you are probably correct on the different types of materials and functions of the stands, Deardorff used the pieces available to fabricate and I'm certain most of these have slight variations. I know that the wheels and lifters on mine are quit a bit different than the pictures I've seen of others.
The last point is that when you reassemble the tubing to the stand, provided you actually removed them, is to insure that they are parallel to each other all the way up and down.

Joe

[Tin Can]

Thanks Joe.

Mine must be different in a couple ways.

I will align the tubes parallel when remounting them to the base, I am very familiar with machine alignment, as a factory mechanic for 30 years. I wish i still had those resources.

Randy,

I checked the photos I have and none of them specifically show these friction plates. They go inside the collars that you show the picture of earlier. The collar sections with the guide wheels about halfway down inside. They are friction between the collars and the tubes and have nothing to do with the weights, as the weights are inside the tube and the friction plates are on the exterior of the pipe. There is no mechanical connection for these. They float inside a cast pocket and the nub on the back side is what the eccentric cam lobe presses against the force this against the pipe. On the colar (DEARDORFF ABA-1 stamped on the side) there is a cast brass lever with a ball dent that locks this friction plate against the pipe column. The lever has a brass shaft that has a cam lob on it the presses against this floating friction plate. Truthfully, I never use this function as the weights counter the camera weight and the worm drive for raising and lowering locks down and the platform doesn't move.
One other point, you are probably correct on the different types of materials and functions of the stands, Deardorff used the pieces available to fabricate and I'm certain most of these have slight variations. I know that the wheels and lifters on mine are quit a bit different than the pictures I've seen of others.
The last point is that when you reassemble the tubing to the stand, provided you actually removed them, is to insure that they are parallel to each other all the way up and down.

Joe

[Tin Can]

OK, still lost in the woods, and it is time for plan B.

Any good ideas on how to redesign this part?

I am thinking plastic sheet, backed with thin sheet steel in a much larger piece than can be captive within the slider tubes, yet also used as a friction lock using my existing lock screws.

McMaster Carr will be getting a second order this week!

[Tin Can]

Well here is a happy surprise. McMaster just delivered some knobs, that match my one still functional Bi-Post leveling screw knob. Many Bi-Post images show the silver painted metal knobs with 3/8" threads. My 2 knobs of that type have stripped out threads. My stand came with one still functional 1/2" bore knob with set screw mounting.

Now I have 3 brand new knobs to match the rather old one good knob. Sure, I could Heli-Coil the the stripped out steel threads, but I like the larger 3" knobs better, which will be easier to use.

The new knobs were also very cheap, like $4 and Made in USA!

I wish McMaster also had a 4th matching knob with 1/2" bore and set screw. I will have to find the manufacturer.

[joe a kras]

Randy,

It does seem that the "DEARDORFF ABA-1" case collars are different on yours. Hopefully you can see the difference in the photo.

Joe

[Tin Can]

Hard to see the levers in the picture. I did find out today there were at least 2 models, described as early and late. Yours and mine have the lattice base plate and newer ones had a solid, without holes, base plate.

The rubbing blocks are still a mystery and I may just leave them out, as many have told me, when a S11 is on the stand, complete with cables, weights and bicycle chain the platform stays where placed, yet is easy to move by hand!

I hope I don't have to take it apart and reassemble it more than once. My crew gets grumpy. I only pay them with canned beer...and camera advice.

Randy,

It does seem that the "DEARDORFF ABA-1" case collars are different on yours. Hopefully you can see the difference in the photo.

Joe

[Tin Can]

Today I am cutting the tubes/pipes. Used a toy Milwaukee M12 cordless sawzall, 2 charged batteries and 2 new blades. One is done. Nice square cut. # 2 coming right up.

Jack stands were ideal to cradle the pipe, with their built in curved saddles.

I also will be making new cables, using 1/8" stainless 19/1 cable and new stainless swageless fittings. Amazon sells this stuff, actually cheaper than elsewhere. 25' Loos USA cable $12 delivered Prime.

Today's question is how long to make the cables? The existing cables are 8" shorter than the 13' tubes, without other guidance, I will copy that dimension.

[Jim C.]

How much did you cut off the tubes ?
Off the top of my head if you cut off 2ft then 2ft off the cable length and minus another 8" ?

That's a decent price for the cable, but personally I'd go with McMaster, I'm close enough
that if I order before 6:30 I'll have it the next day. Bugs me that with Amazon and a lot of other
big online retailers you never know if you're ordering from Amazon or Cables R' Us if you don't pay attention.

[Tin Can]

The tubes were nearly 13', I cut them to 7' figuring with the base height and top cap that is just under 7'-9" total. That may fit in some future owner's home, but I do not plan on selling and would prefer to never move again.

Also, the way the stand is designed the platform rises to nearly full tube height. The S11 normal lens center is about 18" giving a usable height of 8'-6" which is a tall as the tallest person alive.

I think you have the cable strategy incorrect, I will shorten the cables 6' total and that will make them still 8" shorter than the tubes.

McMaster is local to me also, I have often done will call. The cable I got in 2 days from Amazon is USA made by Loos, a major player. I will most likely buy my swageless fittings from Grainger as they have them in stock less than a mile away.

Now I am looking for heavy duty felt for the table top. I have a 1' sq piece with adhesive backing from McMaster that is real nice, firm wool, but white. I bought that to reline the rubbing blocks. White is a poor choice for me, anything else would be better. This, http://www.mcmaster.com/#felt/=osndqi

I may try this, http://www.mcmaster.com/#felt/=osne7e

Or, http://www.mcmaster.com/#felt/=osnfe2

McMaster is a great supplier and treat even the smallest sale as if you were King of the World. I have had courier deliveries from them for a $30 purchase and real humans talk on telephones. They are a joy to buy from.

How much did you cut off the tubes ?
Off the top of my head if you cut off 2ft then 2ft off the cable length and minus another 8" ?

That's a decent price for the cable, but personally I'd go with McMaster, I'm close enough
that if I order before 6:30 I'll have it the next day. Bugs me that with Amazon and a lot of other
big online retailers you never know if you're ordering from Amazon or Cables R' Us if you don't pay attention.